The road across the Cime de la Bonette pass (the D64 from Barcelonnette), claimed to be the highest in Europe, reaches over 2800m and gives a feast of high-altitude views, winding past a string of desolate and abandoned bunkers and military outposts. The air is cold even in summer and the green and silent spaces of the approach to the summit, circled by barren peaks, are magical. There's no transport over the pass, but from Barcelonnette you can take a bus (July & Aug Wed & Fri) to Jausiers at the route's north end, and hike or hitch from there to St-Étienne, from where you can then connect to Nice and points between.Once over the pass, you descend into the Tinée valley and its highest town, ST-ÉTIENNE-DE-TINÉE, which comes to life only during its sheep fairs, held twice every summer, and the Fête de la Transhumance at the end of June. On the west side of the town off boulevard d'Auron, a cable car ascends to the summit of La Pinatelle (€4), a good starting point for walks. There are two welcoming hotel-restaurants on offer: the Regalivou, bd d'Auron (tel & fax 04.93.02.49.00; €55–70), and Des Amis, 1 rue Val-Gélé (tel & fax 04.93.02.40.30; €40–55). On the edge of the village, you'll find a small campsite adjacent to and run by the Maison du Parc (July & Aug daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–7pm; Sept–June Sat & Sun only 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–7pm; tel 04.93.01.42.27). The next stretch downstream from St-Étienne has nothing but white quartz and heather, with only the silvery sound of crickets competing with the water's roar. After Isola, the road – now the D2205 – and river turn south through the Gorges de Valabre to ST-SAUVEUR-SUR-TINÉE, a pleasantly sleepy place, with a useful, if pricey, boulangerie on place de la Mairie selling general provisions (daily except Tues 1–4pm). Shifting east to the Vésubie valley, you come to the lovely little town of ST-MARTIN-VÉSUBIE where a cobbled, narrow street with a channelled stream runs through the old quarter beneath the overhanging roofs and balconies of Gothic houses. Of the four hotels, try La Bonne Auberge (tel 04.93.03.20.49, fax 04.93.03.20.69; €30–40) or Edward's Park Hotel et la Châtaigneraie (tel 04.93.03.21.22, fax 04.93.03.33.99; €70–85; closed Oct–May), both on the allées de Verdon. The closest campsite is the Ferme St-Joseph (tel 04.93.03.20.14; all year), on the route de Nice by the lower bridge over La Madone. The most pleasant restaurant in St-Martin is La Trappa on place du Marché (closed Mon in term-time; around €18), which serves local dishes. The tourist office on place Félix-Faure (last two weeks June & first two weeks Sept daily 9am–noon & 2.30–5.30pm; July & Aug daily 9am–12.30pm & 5–7pm; mid-Sept to mid-June Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 2–5.30pm, Sun 10am–noon; tel 04.93.03.21.28) provides details on walks and gîtes/refuges in the vicinity, and the Maison du Parc at 8 rue Kellerman provides practical information for exploring the Mercantour park (July–Sept daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–7pm; tel 04.93.03.23.15).
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