BARCELONNETTE is a place of immaculate charm, with snow-capped mountains visible at every turn. It's not very big, and a more ideal spot for doing nothing would be hard to find. The central square, place Manuel, has café tables from which to gaze at the blue sky or at the white clock tower commemorating the centenary of the 1848 Revolution. It's close to several ski resorts and to the northern edge of the Parc de Mercantour.The Maison du Parc for the Mercantour (summer only daily 9am–noon & 2–5pm; tel 04.92.81.21.31, www.parc-mercantour.com) shares premises at 10 av de la Libération with the Musée de la Vallée (June & Sept Tues–Sat 3–7pm; July & Aug daily 9.30am–noon & 2.30–7pm; Oct–May Wed, Thurs & Sat 3–6pm; €3.10), which details the popular emigration to Mexico during the nineteenth century. Barcelonnette is full of Mexican connections (many came back with fortunes); in summer the Maison du Mexique, opposite the Musée de la Vallée, puts on films and exhibitions. Barcelonnette's tourist office is on place Frédéric-Mistral (July & Aug daily 9am–8pm; Sept–June Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6.30pm; tel 04.92.81.04.71, www.barcelonnette.net). The best place to stay is the Mexican-style Azteca on rue François-Arnaud (tel 04.92.81.46.36, www.hotel-azteca.fr.st; €70–85), closely followed by the Grande Épervière, 18 rue des Trois-Fréres-Arnaud (tel 04.92.81.00.70, fax 04.92.81.41.28; €55–70). The Grand Hôtel, overlooking place Manuel (tel 04.92.81.03.14, fax 04.92.81.37.56; €40–55; closed mid-April to May & Oct to mid-Dec), is one of the cheaper options. There are three local campsites, the closest being the three-star Du Plan at 52 av E.-Aubert (tel 04.92.81.08.11; closed late Sept to late May; €11 for two people and a tent). Excellent food can be had at La Mangeoire, in an old sheep barn on place des Quatre-Vents (tel 04.92.81.01.61; closed Mon, Tues, second half May & Nov; menu €26, à la carte €40 upwards), while a good second choice is the restaurant of the hotel Cheval Blanc, on rue Grenette (tel 04.92.81.00.19; closed Oct–Dec & Sun Sept–June; menus around €16). While in town be sure also to try the local juniper liquor, Genepy, available from the distiller Le Grand Ruben on rue Grenette.
Pages in section ‘Barcelonnette’: Barcelonnette to Sospel.
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