This is the wildest and most starkly beautiful part of the Aubrac. The close-huddled village of ST-URCIZE, 13km north of the town of Aubrac, hangs off the side of the valley of the River Lhère, with a lovely Romanesque church at its centre and a World War I memorial, with so many names on it you wouldn't have thought it possible such a small place could furnish so much cannon fodder. The village is ghostly out of season, with most of the unspoiled granite houses owned by people who live elsewhere. Should you wish to stay, there's a campsite, a gîte d'étape (tel 04.71.23.20.57) and the welcoming Hôtel Remise (tel 04.71.23.20.02, fax 04.71.23.20.02; €30–40; excellent food for around €15). Another hotel, the Relais de l'Aubrac (tel 04.66.32.52.06, fax 04.66.32.56.58; €40–55; closed mid-Nov to mid-Feb; restaurant from €19), lies at the point where the road to Nasbinals crosses the River Bès at the Pont-du-Gournier, around 5km from St-Urcize.NASBINALS, 8km to the southeast, is rather bigger and livelier, and something of a cross-country ski resort in winter. It, too, has a beautiful small-scale church of the twelfth century, joined onto the adjacent house with a round fortified tower incorporated in the transept wall by the entrance. Just above the building, the Hôtel de La Route d'Argent (tel 04.66.32.50.03, fax 04.66.32.56.77; €30–40) provides comfortable accommodation and good food (from €15). The village tourist office is on the other side of the road (July & Aug Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6.30pm, Sun 9am–noon; Sept–June Tues–Sat 9am–noon & 1.30–4.30pm; tel 04.66.32.55.73) and can rent out mountain bikes. A campsite (tel 04.66.32.50.17) and gîte d'étape (tel 04.66.32.50.65; meals available) are located on the St-Urcize road.
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