Roman monuments are scattered liberally around the streets of Vienne, and it requires little effort to take in the magnificently restored Temple d'Auguste on place du Palais, a perfect, scaled-down version of Nîmes' Maison Carrée, or the scanty remains of the Théâtre de Cybèle, off place de Miremont. The Théâtre Antique, off rue du Cirque at the base of Mont Pipet to the north (AprilAug daily 9.30am1pm & 26pm; Septmid-Oct TuesSun 9.30am1pm & 26pm; mid-OctMarch TuesSat 9.30am12.30pm & 25pm, Sun 1.305.30pm; €2, or €4.10 combined ticket), is more of a haul but it's worth making the trip for the view of the town and river from the very top seats. The theatre is the venue of an international jazz festival for the first two weeks of July, when it plays host to some of the biggest names on the jazz circuit.The Église-Musée St-Pierre (AprilOct TuesSun 9.30am1pm & 26pm; NovMarch TuesFri 9.30am12.30pm & 25pm, Sat & Sun 26pm; €4.10 combined ticket) stands on the site of one of France's first cathedrals. Since its origins in the fifth century, the building has suffered much reconstruction and abuse, including a stint as a factory in the nineteenth century, though the monumental portico of the former church is still striking. Today it houses a forgettable collection of mostly broken and unremarkable Roman sculpture and epigraphy. Close by, is the most prominent and vaunted of Vienne's monuments, the Cathédrale St-Maurice, whose unwieldy facade, a combination of Romanesque and Gothic, appears as if its upper half has been dumped on top of a completely alien building. The interior, with its ninety-metre-long vaulted nave, is impressive though, and there are some superb stained-glass windows and fifteenth-century frescoes. The Église (daily 9amnoon & 26pm; free) and Cloître de St-André-le-Bas (same hours and ticket as St-Pierre) on rue des Clercs, a few streets north of the cathedral, date from the ninth and twelfth centuries. The back tower of the church, on rue de la Table Ronde, is a remarkable monument, studded with tiny carved stone faces, while the cloister, entered through a space where temporary exhibits are held, is a beautiful little Romanesque affair, whose walls are decorated with local tombstones, some dating from the fifth-century. The major museum in Vienne is the Musée des Beaux-Arts et d'Archéologie on place de Miremont (same hours and ticket as St-Pierre), with a preponderance of eighteenth-century French pottery, but also some attractive pieces of third-century Roman silverware. More enlightening is the small textile museum, the Musée de la Draperie (AprilSept WedSun 26pm; €2) in the Espace St-Germain to the south of the centre off rue Vimaine, which, with the aid of videos, working looms and weavers, illustrates the complete process of cloth-making as it was practised in the city for over two hundred years.
|