TAIN-L'HERMITAGE, accessible from both the N7 and the A7, is unpretentious and uneventful. The only reason to stay here is to drink wine and eat chocolate. You can sample a good selection of the renowned Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage wines at the Cave de Tain-l'Hermitage, 22 rte de Larnage (MonSat 8amnoon & 26pm, Sun 9amnoon & 26pm; tel 04.75.08.20.87), and if your visit happens to fall on the last weekend in February you can try out wines from 78 vineyards in the Foire aux Vins des Côtes du Rhône Septentrionales. The celebrated chocolates in question are made by Valrhona and available at their shop (MonFri 9am7pm, Sat 9am6pm) on avenue du Président-Roosevelt (the RN7), past the junction with the RN95 as you're heading south.The tourist office, at 70 av Jean-Jaurès (MonSat 9amnoon & 26pm; tel 04.75.08.06.81, fax 04.75.08.34.59), on the RN7 further north, can provide you with lists of vineyard addresses. If you need to stay, try the inexpensive hotel at 19 av du Dr Paul Durand, Hôtel de la Gare (tel 04.75.08.50.93, fax 04.75.07.11.71; €3040), or the slightly more upmarket Les 2 Côteaux, 18 rue Joseph-Péala, running off Jean-Jaurès south of place Taurobole (tel 04.75.08.33.01, fax 04.75.08.44.20; €3040). For a cheap meal in Tain try the crêperie La Récré, 8 place Taurobole, as an alternative to the stuffier establishments on avenue Jean-Jaurès. Tain's best restaurant, Reynaud, 82 av du Président-Roosevelt (tel 04.75.07.22.10; closed Sun eve & Mon, and Jan), has an excellent-value €26 menu, with à la carte upwards of €46. On the third weekend of September, the different wine-producing villages celebrate their cellars in the Fête des Vendanges. But at any time of the year you can go bottle-hunting along the N86 for some 30km north of Tain along the right bank, following the dégustation signs and then crossing back over between Serrières and Chanas. Alternate spellings:: France, Tain-l'Hermitage, Tain-l'Hermitage, Tain-l'Hermitage
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