HAUTERIVES, 25km northeast of Tain, is a small village with a remarkable creation – a manic, surreal Palais Idéal built by a local postman by the name of Ferdinand Cheval (1836–1912). The house is a truly bizarre structure, a bubbling frenzy reminiscent of the modernista architecture of Spain, with features that recall Pharaonic temples. The eccentric building took him thirty years to carve, and he designed an equally bizarre tombstone which can also be seen. Various Surrealists have paid homage to the building and psychoanalysts have given it much thought, but it defies all classification (daily: Jan & Dec 9.30am–12.30pm & 1.30–4.30pm; Feb–March & Oct–Nov 9.30am–12.30pm & 1.30–5.30pm; April–June & Sept 9am–12.30pm & 1.30–6.30pm; July & Aug 9am–12.30pm & 1.30–7.30pm; www.facteurcheval.com; €4.80). If you want to stay here, you have the choice of the Camping du Château on the edge of town on the N538 (tel 04.75.68.80.19, fax 04.75.68.90.94; closed mid-Oct to March) and a hotel, Le Relais (tel 04.75.68.81.12, fax 04.75.68.92.42; under €30; closed mid-Jan to Feb), in the village itself.
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