From Bagnères, regular daily summer buses serve the meadowy Vallée de Campan, upstream from town, whose architecture is quite distinct from the valleys to the west. Farm roofs are still slate, but house and barn are built in line as one building, with the balconied living quarters always to the right as you face the sun. The valley's "capital" is CAMPAN, with its interesting sixteenth-century covered market, old houses and another curious-looking fortified church with a presumed Cagot door in the west wall. STE-MARIE-DE-CAMPAN, 6km further along, has less character as a village but better accommodation and eating choices in its Hôtel les Deux Cols (tel 05.62.91.85.60, fax 05.62.91.85.31; under €30) and the Gîte L'Ardoiserie (tel 05.62.91.88.88), both offering half-board.
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