After the Gorges de la Fou, the road climbs on towards the border, between valley sides thick with walnut, oak and sweet chestnut, to Prats-de-Mollo. Prats is the last French town before the border with Spain, and has a very Spanish atmosphere. Most of the population seems to sit around or play pétanque in El Firal, the main square. It's surprisingly unspoiled for a border town, and its ville haute makes for a wonderful wander, with steep cobbled streets and a weather-worn grey church with marvellous ironwork on the door under the porch. The encircling walls were rebuilt in the seventeenth century after the suppression of a local revolt against the taxation newly imposed by Louis XIV after the Treaty of the Pyrenees brought these lands under his sway. The Fort Lagarde (April–June 2–6pm; July & Aug 10am–7pm; Sept–March 2–5pm; €3.50), on the heights above the town, also dates from this period, built to keep the local population in check as much as keeping the Spanish out. For accommodation, try the Bellevue (tel 04.68.39.72.48; €30–40; closed Nov–March), overlooking El Firal. If you're camping, head for the municipal site 1km along the road towards La Preste.From Prats-de-Mollo it's only 13km to the border on the Col d'Ares. The next place of any size on the other side of the border is Camprodon, a village about 18km away. Alternatively, if you're feeling energetic, you can bus or hitch the 8km north to the spa town of La Preste, and then walk over the Col Prégon. It's about an hour's steep climb to the top, followed by another hour's more gentle descent down to the small village of Espinavell – leave the road at the first turning on the right before you get into La Preste, and then take the path from La Forge.
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