Port-Vendres, 3km further down the coast, is a functional sort of place. Although the harbour has never been as busy as it was in the nineteenth century, with colonial trade and ferries from North Africa, it still lands more fish than any other place on this stretch of coast. The boats come in between about 4.30pm and 6pm every day except Sunday; you can watch them unload and auction the catch on the dock at the far end of the harbour. Otherwise, there's little to see here.South towards Banyuls, 7km further on, where the GR10 finally comes down to the sea, the road winds through attractive scenery, with the Albères hills rising steeply on the right. the town itself, built round a broad sweep of pebble beach, is pleasant but lacks the charm of Collioure and the energy of more popular resorts. There are, however, several things to see and do there. One is the seafront aquarium of the Laboratoire Arago (daily: July & Aug 9am–noon & 2–10pm; Sept–June 9am–noon & 2–6.30pm; €4), run by the Sorbonne's marine biology department, whose tanks contain a comprehensive collection of the region's fish and submarine life. Also worth a look are the works of the sculptor Aristide Maillol, who was born in Banyuls; they can be seen in front of the mairie and on the port, as well as at the museum at Mas Maillol, 4km outside the town, where he is buried (daily: May–Sept 10am–noon & 4–7pm; rest of year 10am–noon & 2–5pm; €4). You could also sample the dark, full-bodied Banyuls wine, an appellation which, apart from Banyuls itself, applies only to the vineyards of Collioure, Port-Vendres and Cerbère. The best place to do this is the Cellier des Templiers, on route du Mas-Reig, just under the rail line at the foot of the steep brown-stone terraces of Banyuls' own vineyards (April–Oct daily 9am–7pm; rest of year Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm). For further information consult the tourist office opposite the Hôtel de Ville on the seafront (July & Aug daily 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm; Sept–June Tues–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–6.30pm; tel 04.68.88.31.58). Of the cheaper hotels, the best is Le Manoir, 20 rue de Maréchal-Joffre (tel 04.68.88.32.98; €30–40), and there's a municipal campsite on avenue Guy Malé (tel 04.68.88.32.13; closed mid-Oct to March). For somewhere to eat, try Chez Rosa, at 22 rue St-Pierre, which serves hearty fare at reasonable prices (from €10–14; closed eve in winter); alternatively, head for the more upmarket La Pergola (€14.50–25) and Al Fanal (from €18.50), both on seafront avenue du Fontaulé. A magnificent winding drive snakes up from Banyuls through the vineyards to the Tour Madeloc, a watchtower built by Jaime I of Majorca at the end of the thirteenth century on the crest of a ridge at about 650m. On a clear day, you can see down into Spain, along the coast, across to Montpellier and over the Corbières, with the castles of Quéribus and Peyrepertuse easily visible.
| 