From Pont d'Aliès a beautiful route runs west up the valley of the Rebenty on the tiny D107 through woods of beech, fir and oak, with a magnificent early summer display of orchids and other Pyrenean flowers. It's a marvellous cycling route, too, except for the agony of the climb out of the valley. The road continues to Ax-les-Thermes over the Col du Pradel, or you can escape onto the Plateau de Sault at ESPEZEL, some 20km west of Axat.The narrowest and deepest stretch of the scenic Gorges de l'Aude is the eighteen or so kilometres between Axat and Usson. If you want to admire the scenery, don't drive: the road is much too dangerous to allow your eyes to wander. Towards the end is a magnificent cave to investigate, the Grotte de l'Aguzou. It's expensive to visit, but as near the real thing as you can get without being a caver – you spend the entire day underground, accoutred like a professional. Visits must be arranged a week in advance and there must be a minimum of four people (contact M. Moreno in Mijanès, tel 04.68.20.45.38; or the Quillan tourist office; €60). Camping sauvage is allowed by the river.
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