| The GR10 from Ainhoa, as well as the train line (station Pont-Noblia), both call at BIDARRAY, which at first glance seems restricted to a few houses clustered around its medieval bridge. Further investigation, however, reveals the upper village, scattered appealingly on a ridge with superb views. On the way into the village on the GR10 is a gîte d'étape, Auñamendi (tel 05.59.37.71.34; under €30), while the central place de l'Église is flanked by the Hôtel Restaurant Barberaenea (tel 05.59.37.74.86, [email protected]; €30–40), where it's worth enduring leisurely service for the tasty five-course €21 menu du terroir served under the plane trees. Another good option down in the riverbank quarter, the welcoming Hôtel-Restaurant du Pont d'Enfer (tel 05.59.37.70.88, www.pontenfer.multimania.com; €55–70; closed Nov–Easter), also known as Chez Anny after the owner, has good-sized rooms and a restaurant serving on a river-view terrace in summer – among several menus, the €19.82 one is best value. A short walk east, equidistant from upper and riverside quarters, lies the Camping Errekaldia (tel 05.59.37.72.36). Bidarray is the preferred starting point for the classic ridge walk of the Basque country, the section of the GR10 running roughly south along the Crête d'Iparla, and then descending east to St-Étienne-de-Baïgorry. It's seven hours one way, and should only be attempted in settled conditions – when bad weather closes in, you won't get its famous views and close-range sightings of vultures, and you'll be at risk from lightning strikes or falling from the mist-shrouded brink, both of which kill hikers here regularly. Consult current SNCF schedules before setting out so that you coincide with one of the afternoon rail-buses that run the eight kilometres between St-Étienne and the train station of Ossès-St-Martin-d'Arrossa, one stop above Pont-Noblia. Like most other Basque villages, St-Étienne is divided into quite distinct quarters, more like separate hamlets than a unified village. A prosperous, sleek place, its business is still predominantly agriculture rather than tourism, with the Pays Basque's only vineyards scattered all around, producing a good, strong wine named Irouléguy (Irulegi) after the eponymous village 5km east; a local shop, on the road north to St-Jean, offers dégustation. There's little to see here, other than a seventeenth-century church with a sumptuous Baroque retable and a picturesque medieval bridge posing against a backdrop of romantic castle (not open for visits) and distant hills. The tourist office is opposite the church (July & Aug Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2.30–6pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm; Sept–June closed Sun; tel 05.59.37.47.28). For budget accommodation, there's only the Gîte d'étape Mendy (tel 05.59.37.42.39; under €30), with camping space, in the northerly Lespars quarter. Other options include the tranquil Hôtel-Restaurant Maechenea, 4km north in the hamlet of Urdos (tel 05.59.37.41.68, fax 05.59.37.46.03; closed mid-Nov to Mar; €40–55), set on the bank of a stream, and the three-star Hôtel-Restaurant Arcé, on the west side of the river in St-Étienne (tel 05.59.37.40.14, fax 05.59.37.40.27; closed mid-Nov to Mar; €100–125), with English-speaking management and a restaurant serving menus at €18 and €26.
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