| There are some reasonable places to eat near the market halles, 200m southwest of place Clemenceau, and it's easy to eat well for a price, away from the touristy snack bars on rue du Port-Vieux. Two of the best options around the market are Le St Amour, at 26 rue Gambetta, a Lyonnais-style bistro with a sausage-strong lunch menu at €13 (closed Sun & Mon), and Bistrot des Halles (tel 05.59.24.21.22), at 1 rue du Centre, which serves generously portioned, tasty fish dishes (€17–31; closed Sun eve & Mon). Le Surfing, behind Plage de Côte des Basques and festooned with antique boards, serves decent grills and frites, while clubbers repair to Le Morgan, at 4 rue du Helder off place Clemenceau, open 7pm until dawn, though the cheaper menus are only available until 10pm. Just south of the city limits on the Plage d'Ilbarritz, Blue Cargo (tel 05.59.23.54.87; à la carte around €28) is currently the hottest place in town, serving mostly fish and salads on the terrace by an old villa, while the lower tent-bar gets going as a jampacked dance club after midnight. More formal nightlife in the town centre includes Cayo Coco, a Cuban theme bar at 5 rue Jaulerry offering free salsa dance lessons, a slightly naff Irish Pub at 10 rue Victor-Hugo downhill from the halles, and Ventilo Caffe on rue du Port-Vieux, the favourite haunt of Parisian thirtysomethings. Whether you've slept the night before or not, the best start to the day is at Salon de Thé L'Orangerie at 1 rue Gambetta, serving all sorts of hot drinks and a great variety of breakfasts.
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