Between Pau and Laruns, the only places worth stopping are ARUDY, for its Maison d'Ossau (July & Aug 10am–noon & 3–6pm; rest of year Mon 10am–noon, Tues, Thurs & Sat 2.30–5pm, Sun 3–6pm; €3), which offers a comprehensive account of the prehistoric Pyrenees and an exhibition of the flora and fauna of the Parc National, and ASTE-BÉON 2km upvalley, home to La Falaise aux Vautours (April daily 10am–1pm & 2–7pm; May & Sept daily 2.30–6.30pm; June–Aug daily 10am–1pm & 2–7pm; rest of year Sat 3–6pm; €6), a vulture-watching installation where the creatures are observed nesting naturally.At LARUNS, enclosed in the valley bottom by steep wooded heights, you'll find some fine old farms towards the river in the quarter known as Le Pon. For six days in early July the town comes alive with a festival celebrating traditional Béarnaise transhumance in which the flocks are driven high up into the mountains for summer pasturing. The tourist office is in the main place de la Mairie (Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 2–6.30pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; tel 05.59.05.31.41). If you stay the night, try the central Hôtel D'Ossau (tel 05.59.05.30.14, fax 05.59.05.47.00; €30–40) or the characterful Hôtel de France, at the eastern end of town opposite the disused gare (tel 05.59.05.33.71, fax 05.59.05.43.83; €30–40; closed first two weeks of June & Dec). There's also the 28-bunk Chalet-Refuge L'Embaradère (tel 05.59.05.41.88; cheap meals offered), more or less opposite the Hôtel de France, while the nearest campsites are Ayguebere (tel 05.59.05.38.55) and Pont Lauguère (tel 05.59.05.35.99), both in Le Pon quarter and open all year. For food, L'Arrégalet at 37 rue du Bourguet (closed Mon lunch) is strong on local recipes.
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