The first stop on the D118 road, 24km south of Carcassonne, LIMOUX is served several times daily by both the SNCF and the private Cars Teissier buses. It stands astride the Aude, which for much of the year is a powerful grey flood of snow melt. Life revolves around the pretty place de la République in the heart of the old town, with its Friday market, and the nineteenth-century promenade du Tivoli, in effect a bypass road. Known in the past for its woollens and the tanning of hides brought down from the mountains, the town's claim to fame today is the production of its excellent sparkling wine, Blanquette de Limoux, much cheaper than champagne.The tourist office, on promenade du Tivoli (July & Aug Mon–Fri 9.30am–noon & 2–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–noon & 2–5pm; Sept–June Mon–Sat 9.30am–noon & 4–6pm; tel 04.68.31.11.82), shares a building with the Musée Petiet (same hours; €2.74), displaying a collection of local nineteenth-century paintings. The top two hotel choices are the splendid and stately Modern & Pigeon in place Général Leclerc (tel 04.68.31.00.25, modpig@chezcom; €55–70; closed Wed), and the humbler Des Arcades, south of the church at 96 rue St-Martin (tel 04.68.31.02.57, fax 04.68.31.66.42; €30–40); both are comfortable and have television in the rooms and garage parking. The municipal campsite (tel 04.68.31.13.63; closed Oct to mid-May) is on the east bank of the river, south of the old bridge. For an unusual and colourful place to eat, try the Maison de la Blanquette, on promenade du Tivoli, which sells local wines and serves excellent food (closed Wed; from €12.25); otherwise there are plenty of cafés and brasseries on the main square, or try one of the hotels above – the hearty menus at the Modern & Pigeon (closed Sun noon & Mon) start at €25. If you're interested in sampling or buying any wine, the best place to go is the co-operative, Aimery-Sieur d'Arques, in avenue du Mauzac (daily 9am–noon & 2.30–7pm).
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