The only way of reaching the Gave de Pau by road without going back towards Pau is via the minor D918 over the Col d'Aubisque, a grassy, rounded ridge 17km from (and nearly 1000m above) Laruns. There's a café on the top, served by a single CITRAM bus from Laruns (July to mid-Sept). If you attempt to hitch on east, it's best to get a through ride the 18km to attractive Arrens-Marsous, where you'll find uninspiring accommodation and restaurants, among which La Maison Camélat, a gîte d'étape in a fine, rambling old house just off the central place (tel 05.62.97.40.94, fax 05.62.97.43.01), is the best option. Between Laruns and the col, there are two resorts: the old Second Empire spa of Eaux-Bonnes, and the ugly ski centre of Gourette, which offers some thirty intermediate to advanced runs off Pic de Ger (2613m).The col is a favourite place for slaughtering migrating wood pigeons in autumn, as the numerous shooting butts along the ridge bear witness. The Tour de France also usually passes this way, making the pass an irresistible challenge to any French cyclist worth his salt. You see swarms of them toiling up from the west, making it a matter of pride to find the breath for a cheery "Bonjour".
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