| To reach the old town from place de la République, take avenue de la Résistance, which runs alongside the town's main church, the Collègiale St-Martin (organ recitals July–Sept Sat 5pm), and start wandering up the alleyways into immaculate, leafy squares. For an introduction to the region, a good first visit would be to the Musée des Alpilles on place Favier, housed in the Hôtel Mistral de Mondragon (daily: April–June & Sept–Oct 10am–noon & 2–6pm; July & Aug 10am–noon & 2–7pm; Nov–Dec 10am–noon & 2–5pm; €2.75). The museum, currently closed for renovations and scheduled to reopen in 2004, features interesting displays on folklore, festivities and traditional crafts, plus some intriguing local landscapes, some creepy portraits by Marshal Pétain's first wife and souvenirs of local boy Nostradamus. The neighbouring Musée Archéologique in the Hôtel de Sade (daily: Feb, March & Oct–Dec 9am–noon & 2–5pm; April–Sept 9am–noon & 2–6pm; €2.50, €6 including entry to Glanum), displays finds from the archeological digs at the Greco-Roman town of Glanum. The hour or so which it takes to wander through the museum may be a bit much for the non-committed, but there are some stunning pieces, in particular the temple decorations. In addition to the two fifteenth- to sixteenth-century hôtels that house the museums, you'll find more ancient stately residences as you wander through the old town, particularly along rue Parage. On rue Hoche is the birthplace of Nostradamus, though only the facade is contemporary with the savant, and the house is not open for visits. The Hôtel d'Estrine, 8 rue Estrine, houses the Centre d'Art Présence Van Gogh (April–Dec Tues–Sun 10.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm; €3.20), which hosts contemporary art exhibitions and has a permanent exhibition of Van Gogh reproductions and extracts from letters, as well as audiovisual presentations on the painter.
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