| You'll find plenty of brasseries and restaurants in and around old St-Rémy. There are a few good options on rue Carnot (leading from boulevard Victor-Hugo east through the old town to boulevard Marceau), including the Provençal La Gousée d'Ail at no. 25 (tel 04.90.92.16.87; closed Thurs & Sat lunch), with menus at €14.50 or €28.50 and live jazz on Thursday nights, and La Maison Jaune at no. 15 (tel 04.90.92.56.14; closed Mon & Sun eve in winter, Mon & Tues in summer), with a €28 weekday lunch menu and a fabulous menu dégustation provençal for €44. Alternatively, Le Jardin de Frédéric, 8 bd Gambetta (tel 04.90.92.27.76; closed Wed & Thurs lunch), with a €16 lunch menu, usually has some interesting dishes on offer, and Xa, 24 bd Mirabeau (tel 04.90.92.41.23; closed Wed & Nov–March; €23 menu), is a new modish restaurant with excellent food. For a scenic spot to dine on crêpes, try Lou Planet, 7 place Favier, by the Musée des Alpilles, and for brasserie fare head for Le Bistrot des Alpilles, 15 bd Mirabeau (open till midnight; closed Sun). For café-lounging, head for the Café des Arts, 30 bd Victor-Hugo (open till 12.30am; closed Tues & Feb), where the works of local painters are exhibited. The best time to visit St-Rémy is during the Fête de Transhumance on Whit Monday, when a 2000-strong flock of sheep, accompanied by goats and donkeys, does a tour of the town before being packed off to the Alps for the summer. Another good time to come is for the Carreto Ramado, on August 15, a harvest thanksgiving procession in which the religious or secular symbolism of the floats reveals the political colour of the various village councils, while a pagan rather than workers' May Day is celebrated with donkey-drawn floral floats on which people play fifes and tambourines.
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