Haut-Var villages
France > Provence > Eastern > Haut-Var villages
Between ST-MAXIMIN-DE-LA-STE-BAUME, 35km east of Aix and famous for its supposed possession of the relics of Mary Magdalene, and DRAGUIGNAN, an eminently avoidable military town except for the wonderful Les Milles Colonnes restaurant in place aux Herbes, a network of small roads wind through farmland, vineyards and woods and alongside streams and lakes, linking a dozen villages, all of which are ideal for Provençal-style loafing.East of the Lac de Carcès, between Cabasse and Carcès, off the D19, lies the last of the three great Cistercian monasteries of Provence. Even more so than Silvacane and Sénanque, the Abbaye du Thoronet (April–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–noon & 2–7pm; Oct–March daily 10am–1pm & 2–5pm; €5.50) has been unscathed by the vicissitudes of time, and during the Revolution was kept intact as a remarkable monument of history and art; today it is occasionally used for concerts. It was first restored in the 1850s, while a more recent campaign has brought it to clear-cut perfection. As with the other two abbeys, its interior spaces, delineated by walls of pale rose-coloured stone, are inspiring. LORGUES, further east, has a serious gourmet stop in the restaurant Chez Bruno on route de Vidauban (tel 04.94.85.93.93; closed Mon & Sun eve out of season; menu at €52, à la carte around €65), where the truffle reigns supreme, appearing in myriad forms, even in desserts. Heading 13km northwest, ENTRECASTEAUX has an ancient stone laundry by the river that's still used, and a very beautiful Château (closed to the public). COTIGNAC, 9km west of Entrecasteaux, is the Haut-Var village par excellence, with a shaded main square for pétanque and passages and stairways bursting with begonias, jasmine and geraniums leading through a cluster of medieval houses. More gardens sprawl at the foot of the bubbly rock cliff that forms the back wall of the village. You can stay in the village at the recently renovated Lou Calen at the bottom of cours Gambetta (tel 04.94.04.60.40, fax 04.94.04.76.64; €40–55). North of Cotignac, SILLANS-LA-CASCADE has a beautiful walk, signposted off the main road, to an immense waterfall and aquamarine pool (about 20min). SALERNES, 6km east of Sillans, makes tiles and pottery and has the good, old-fashioned Grand Hôtel Allègre, on route de Sillans (tel 04.94.70.60.30, fax 04.94.70.78.84; €30–40; closed mid-Nov to mid-April). VILLECROZE and TOURTOUR to the northeast are both suitably picturesque. The Auberge des Lavandes, on place du Général-de-Gaulle in Villecroze (tel 04.94.70.76.00, fax 04.94.70.56.45; €40–55; closed Jan & Feb), is one of the best-value hotels in the region, while in Tourtour, on route de Flayosc, you can shelter in total luxury at La Bastide de Tourtour (tel 04.94.70.57.30, fax 04.94.70.54.90; over €150). A second option in Tourtour, which won't break the bank, is La Petite Auberge (tel 04.98.10.26.16, [email protected]; €85–100). Between the two villages is a highly reputed restaurant, Les Chênes Verts (tel 04.94.70.55.06; closed Tues eve & Wed), with menus from €44.
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