If you're heading down to Avignon from Sérignan-du-Comtat, the slower route through CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE (four buses daily) exerts a strong pull. The village takes its name from the summer palace of the Avignon popes, but neither the scant ruins of the fourteenth-century Château (freely accessible) nor the medieval streets around place du Portail – the hub of the village – give Châteauneuf its special appeal. Rather it's the wines produced by the local vineyards, warmed at night by the large pebbles that cover the ground and soak up the sun's heat during the day, that are its real attraction. The rich ruby red is one of France's most renowned, but the white, too, is exquisite.The appellation Châteauneuf-du-Pape does not, alas, come cheap. For the uninitiated, the best place to taste a good selection from the scores of domains before making an investment, is at the boutique La Maison des Vins, at 8 rue du Maréchal Foch (mid-June to mid-Sept daily 9am–7pm; mid-Sept to mid-June daily 10am–12.30pm & 2–6.30pm). For a more casual introduction, the Cave Père-Anselme on avenue Bienheureux-Pierre-de-Luxembourg has a Musée du Vin (daily 9am–noon & 2–6pm; free), plus free tastings of its wines. Otherwise, the tourist office on place du Portail (July & Aug Mon–Sat 9.30am–7pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm & 2–6pm; Sept–June Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–6pm; tel 04.90.83.71.08, fax 04.90.83.50.34), or the Fédération des Syndicats de Producteurs, 12 av Louis-Pasteur (tel 04.90.83.72.21), can provide a complete list of producers, or you can visit an Association de Vignerons, such as Prestige et Tradition at 3 rue de la République (Aug & Sept daily 8am–noon & 2–6pm; Oct–July closed Sun), who bottle the wine of ten producers. If your visit coincides with the first weekend of August you'll find free dégustation stalls throughout the village as well as parades, dances, equestrian contests, medieval entertainment and so forth, all to celebrate the reddening of the grapes in the Fête de la Véraison. As well as wine, a good deal of grape liqueur – marc – gets consumed. Accommodation is confined to four very pleasant but small hotels: La Garbure, 3 rue Joseph-Ducos (tel 04.90.83.75.08, fax 04.90.83.52.34; €55–70); the four-star Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches on route d'Avignon (tel 04.90.83.70.23, www.chateaufinesroches.com; over €150); La Mère Germaine on avenue Cdt-Lemaitre (tel 04.90.83.54.37, www.lameregermaine.com; €40–55); and La Sommellerie on route de Roquemaure (tel 04.90.83.50.00, www.hotel-la-sommellerie.com; over €150, half-board obligatory). You can eat well for around €15 at the brasserie La Mule du Pape, 2 rue de la République (restaurant closed Sun eve & Mon), or pay a bit more at La Mère Germaine (closed Wed), with its well-crafted Provençal dishes, and much more at La Sommellerie (closed Sun eve & Mon out of season; menus from €27.50–69), where the cook is one of France's master chefs. Everything here is made on the premises, from the bread to the fine desserts, and meat is cooked on an outdoor wood fire. Alternate spellings:: France, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Chateauneuf-du-Pape
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