Records, cassettes and CDs are not particularly cheap in Paris, but there are plenty of secondhand bargains, and you may come across selections that are novel enough to tempt you. Brazilian, Caribbean, Antillais, African and Arab albums that would be specialist rarities in London or the States, as well as every kind of jazz, abound in Paris. Rue Keller and rue des Taillandiers, in the 11e (M° Bastille), have a wide range of offbeat record shops selling current trends. Secondhand traders offer up scratchy treats – anything from the Red Army choir singing the Marseillaise to African drummers on skins made from spider ovaries. The flea markets (St-Ouen especially), and the bouquinistes along the Seine, are good places to look for old records.In the classical department, the choice of interpretations is generous and multinational. For all new and mainstream records, FNAC Musique (see below) usually has the best prices. Also listed below are a couple of bookshops selling sheet music, scores and music literature, and some that sell instruments. Victor-Massé, Douai, Houdon, boulevard Clichy and other streets in the Pigalle area are full of instrument and sound-system shops. Guitarists especially will enjoy a look in at 16 rue V-Massé, 9e – afternoons only – where François Guidon builds jazz guitars for the greats and amateurs. For instruments and scores, head for Paul Beuscher, at the Bastille, which has amazing sales in spring. Afric' Music 3 rue des Plantes, 14e. A small shop with an original selection of African, Caribbean and reggae discs. M° Mouton-Duvernet. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm. Arts Sonores 8 rue des Taillandiers, 14e. Sells secondhand vinyl and is particularly strong on French chanson. M° Bastille. Tues–Sun 1.30–7.30pm. Camara 45 rue Marcadet, 18e. Paris's best selection of West African music on cassette and video. M° Marcadet-Poissonnière. Mon–Sat noon–8pm. La Chaumière 5 rue de Vaugirard, 6e. Classical music and some jazz, with more than 15,000 CD recordings to choose from, many discounted. You can listen before you buy, and the staff are happy to give advice. M° Odéon. Mon–Fri 11am–8pm, Sat 10am–8pm, Sun 2–8pm. Crocodisc 40–42 rue des Écoles, 5e. Folk, Oriental, Afro-Antillais, raï, funk, reggae, salsa, hip-hop, soul, country. New and secondhand, at some of the best prices in town. M° Maubert-Mutualité. Tues–Sat 11am–7pm. Crocojazz 64 rue de la Montagne-Ste-Geneviève, 5e. Mainly new imports of jazz and blues. M° Maubert-Mutualité. Tues–Sat 11am–7pm. Disc' Inter 2 rue des Rasselins, 20e. Wide-ranging stock of Afro-Caribbean music on CD, cassette, video and vinyl. M° Porte-de-Montreuil. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm. Dream Store 4 pl St-Michel, 6e. Good discounts on classical in particular but also some jazz, rock and French chanson. M° St-Michel. Mon 1.30pm–7.15pm, Mon–Sat 9.30am–7.30pm. FNAC Musique 4 pl de la Bastille, 12e, next to the opera house www.fnac.fr. Extremely stylish shop in black, grey and chrome with computerized catalogues, every variety of music, books, and a concert booking agency. M° Bastille. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm, Wed & Fri till 10pm. The other FNAC shops (see under "Bookshops") sell music and hi-fi. Try FNAC-Étoile, at 26 av des Ternes, 17e (M° Ternes), Mon–Sat 10am–7pm, for jazz. Hamm 55bis rue de Rennes, 6e. The biggest general music shop in Paris, selling instruments new and old, sheet music, scores, manuals, librettos etc. M° St-Placide. Tues–Sat 10.15am–7pm. Branches at 17 & 21 rue Monge (M° Place Monge). Librairie Musicale de Paris 68bis rue Réaumur, 3e. Huge selection of books on music and of music, from Baroque oratorios to heavy metal. M° Réaumur-Sébastopol. Tues–Sat 10.15am–7pm. Maison Sauviat 124 bd de la Chapelle, 18e. Wonderful shop that's been going strong since the 1920s. Now specializing in North and West African and Middle Eastern music. M° Barbès-Rochechouart. Mon–Sat 9am–7.30pm. Moby Disques 28 rue Monge, 5e. Passionate jazz fans will like this small shop; jazz on vinyl – many collectors' items and Japanese imports – bought, sold and exchanged at reasonable prices. M° Cardinal-Lemoine. Mon–Sat 1.30–6pm. Parallèles 47 rue St-Honoré, 1er. Principally an alternative bookshop, but with a good selection of pop and rock and secondhand CDs. M° Châtelet-Les Halles. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm. Paris Jazz Corner 5 & 7 rue Navarre, 5e. Worth it just for the dustily dedicated atmosphere of the shop, which faces the Arènes de Lutèce. Great collection of jazz and blues, with lots of secondhand vinyl. M° Monge. Mon–Sat noon–8pm. Paul Beuscher 15–27 bd Beaumarchais, 4e www.paul-beuscher.com. A music department store that's been going strong for more than a hundred years. Instruments, scores, books, recording equipment, etc. M° Bastille. Mon 2–7pm, Tues–Sat 10.15am–7pm. Virgin Megastore 52 av des Champs-Élysées, 8e (M° Franklin-D.Roosevelt); and Carrousel du Louvre, under the Louvre, 1er (M° Palais-Royal-Musée-du-Louvre). One of the biggest music stores, but lacks the wax rock heroes of the London store. Concert-booking agency and expensive Internet connection. Mon–Sat 10am–midnight, Sun noon–midnight. Voltage 23 rue Roi de Sicile, 4e. An extensive collection of good-condition vinyl – mostly heavy metal and thrash rock. M° St-Paul Mon–Sat 10am–7pm.
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