Trocadéro and the Septième
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Thoumieux

Cafés and Bars

Café du Marché 38 rue Cler, 7^e. Big, busy café-brasserie serving excellent-value meals, with a plat du jour for €8 that's as fresh tasting as you'd expect, given the position in the middle of the rue Cler market. M° La Tour-Maubourg. Mon–Sat noon–11pm.

Café du Musée d'Orsay 1 rue Bellechasse, 7^e. The Musée d'Orsay's rooftop café offers one of the city's quirkier views – over the Seine and towards Montmartre – seen through the giant clockface dominating the room. Serves snacks and drinks. RER Musée-d'Orsay/M° Solférino. Tues–Sun 11am–5pm.

Le Poch'tron 25 rue de Bellechasse, 7^e. With a fine selection of snacks and wines by the glass, this is an excellent place to revive yourself after visiting the museums in the arrondissement. Also serves lunch and dinner; main dishes at around €12. M° Solférino. Mon–Fri 9am–10.30pm.

Sancerre 22 av Rapp, 7^e. Welcoming wine shop and bar serving glasses of Sancerre from around €4, including the rarer red variety. Accompanying snacks include little crottins de Chavignol – goat's cheese "droppings" – and good omelettes and charcuterie. M° Alma-Marceau. Mon–Fri 8am–10pm, Sat 8am–2pm.

Totem southern wing of the Palais de Chaillot, pl du Trocadéro, 16^e. Walk nonchalantly past the full-on native-American-themed restaurant to the terrace at the back, which offers magnificent views of the Eiffel Tower and a chance to enjoy it with a coffee or something stronger. M° Trocadéro. Daily noon–2am.

Restaurants

L'Affriolé 17 rue Malar, 7^e tel 01.44.18.31.33. Don't be put off by the chilly pseudo-Athenian decor, the welcome is warm here and the food superb. This chef-led bistrot is traditionally French, but Mediterranean flavours and some brilliant combinations really bring the fresh produce to life. At lunch, two courses with wine costs €19, or there's an €30 menu in the evening. M° Invalides. Tues–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7.30–10pm.

L'Ami Jean 27 rue Malar, 7^e tel 01.47.05.86.89. Good, robust Basque food (paella, pipérade, poulet basquaise) for around €15 for a main course. The ambience is cosy, but gets as robust as the food on rugby nights – the owner is a fan. M° La Tour-Maubourg. Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7.30–10pm; closed Aug.

Au Babylone 13 rue de Babylone, 7^e tel 01.45.48.72.13. Lots of old-fashioned charm and culinary basics like rôti de veau and steak, plus wine on the €17 menu. M° Sèvres-Babylone. Mon–Sat lunch only; closed Aug.

Le Basilic 2 rue Casimir-Périer, 7^e tel 01.44.18.94.64. A very classy restaurant with lots of polished brass and a terrace overlooking the apse of Ste-Clotilde church. Specialities such as gigot d'agneau will set you back €15, but count on €40 for a full meal. M° Solférino. Daily noon–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm.

Le Bourdonnais 113 av La Bourdonnais, 7^e tel 01.47.05.47.96. A gem of a restaurant and a high-class one at that, if you'll forgive the claustrophobic, hotel-like decor. You can ruin yourself à la carte, but memorable menus can be had for €42 at lunch; €64 or €80 in the evening. M° École-Militaire. Daily noon–2.30pm & 8–11pm.

Chez Germaine 30 rue Pierre-Leroux, 7^e tel 01.42.73.28.34. A simple and tiny restaurant packing them in for the excellent-value menu at €12, or €9 at lunch. M° Duroc/Vaneau. Closed Sat evening, Sun & Aug.

Au Petit Tonneau 20 rue Surcouf, 7^e tel 01.47.05.09.01. A small bistrot-style restaurant serving refined traditional French cuisine; wild mushrooms are a speciality. All prices are à la carte: under €10 for starters, anything from €15–30 for mains. M° Invalides. Daily noon–3.30pm & 7–11.30pm.

Au Pied de Fouet 45 rue de Babylone, 7^e tel 01.47.05.12.27. An atmospheric, little – just four tables and no reservations – place, perfect for dining on simple French classics. Under €15 for a full meal. M° St-François-Xavier/Sèvres-Babylone. Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm & 7–9.30pm, Sat noon–2.30pm; closed Sun & Aug.

Le P'tit Troquet 28 rue de l'Exposition, 7^e tel 01.47.05.80.39. Tiny, discreet family restaurant decked out like a quirkily elegant antiques shop. Serves exquisite traditional cuisine to the diplomats and politicians of the quartier. Menu at €27. M° École Militaire. Tues–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7.30–10pm; Mon 7.30–10pm.

Thoumieux 79 rue St-Dominique, 7^e tel 01.47.05.49.75. Cavernous, traditional brasserie replete with mirrors, carved wood, hatstands and bustling, black-and-white clad waiters. Popular with a smart local clientele for carefully prepared classics, many with a southwestern emphasis. Basic lunch menu at €14, or €31 in the evening. M° La Tour-Maubourg. Daily noon–3.30pm & 6.30pm–midnight.

La Varangue 27 rue Augereau, 7^e tel 01.47.05.51.22. Also known as Philippe's restaurant, after the proprietor, who presides over the tiny, homely dining room from his minuscule open kitchen, dishing up salads, desserts and simple plats – many of them vegetarian – straight over the counter. Lots of formules, with a good three-course deal for €11.50. M° École-Militaire. Mon–Sat noon–3pm & 6–9pm.