Place d'Aligre market
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The place d'Aligre market (Mº Ledru-Rollin), between avenue Daumesnil and rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, is a lively, raucous affair, held every morning except Monday, and particularly animated on Saturdays and Sundays. The square itself is given over to clothes and bric-a-brac stalls, selling anything from old gramophone players to odd bits of crockery. There's also a covered food market with the usual line-up of fromageries and charcuteries, plus more unusual stalls like the one selling numerous varieties of olive oil. It's along the adjoining rue d'Aligre, however, where the market really comes to life, the vendors, many of Algerian origin, doing a frenetic trade in fruit and veg. As the market winds down, you could follow the locals to the old-fashioned Baron Rouge wine bar for a glass of wine and saucisson, or drink in the North African atmosphere at the Ruche à Miel café at 19 rue d'Aligre and order some mint tea with sticky cakes. Before leaving the area it's also worth taking a look at the old-style boulangerie on the corner of rues Charenton and Emilio-Castelar, with its beautiful painted glass panels, the queue of shoppers outside testifying to the excellence of its bread and pâtisseries.
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