Tea dances and guinguettes
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For many years, a less obvious but very Parisian way to fill the afternoon hours was at a bal musette – a traditional knees-up, usually to the tune of an accordion (musette) band. The dance halls where they took place were the between-the-wars solution in the down-and-out parts of the city to depression, the Dole and the demise of the Popular Front. Since the end of Balajo, the nearest equivalent has been a tea dance, or thé dansant – a much more genteel or camp experience, often held by different promoters on a monthly or occasional basis (check the Listings in magazines like Zurban or Nova). Absolutely free and more casual are the open-air dances held on Sunday afternoons throughout the summer at the Kiosque de Musique at the Parc de la Villette. The music is live, loud and international and the atmosphere is particularly conducive to kicking off your shoes and dancing on the grass.For the ultimate Parisian retro experience, head for a traditional riverbank guingette. You can usually eat good, homely French food, but the real draw is the orchestra. Families, older couples and trendy young things from the city sway with varying degrees of skill to foxtrots, tangos and lots of well-loved accordion numbers – especially good for a Sunday afternoon. Chalet du Lac facing the lac de St-Mandé, Bois de Vincennes, 11e tel 01.43.28.09.89. Afternoon dancing on Monday, Thursday and Friday, but it's best to save yourself for the elegant Sunday specials (3–9pm; €10), when a live band helps smooth out your footwork, and you can segue into the evening's Grand Bal, which continues until 2am. The restaurant serves good brasserie classics, with a menu at €30. M° St-Mandé-Tourelles. Chez Gégène 162bis quai de Polangis, Joinville-le-Pont tel 01.48.83.29.43. Just the other side of the Bois de Vincennes, this is a genuine guinguette established in the 1900s, though the band mixes in pop anthems with the accordion classics. There's a decent restaurant, but the time to come is on Saturday nights (9pm–2am) and Sunday afternoons (3–7pm), when a live band plays ballroom classics and traditional French numbers. Admission €17 for non-diners. RER Joinville-le-Pont. Open April–Dec. Divan du Monde 75 rue des Martyrs, 18e tel 01.44.92.77.66 A venue to keep an eye on, with occasional afternoon events such as gay tea dances or the monthly kids' ball. M° Pigalle. La Flèche d'Or 102 bis rue de Bagnolet, 20e tel 01.43.72.98.18. A relaxed soirée called "Je hais les dimanches" ("I hate Sundays") takes place roughly one Sunday a month (5pm–2am; €6), attracting families with children and clubbers winding down from the night before. On other Sundays, things get a bit more upbeat, with Afro-Latin and salsa sessions. M° Alexandre Dumas. Guinguette de l'île du Martin-Pêcheur 41 quai Victor-Hugo, Champigny-sur-Marne tel 01.49.83.03.02. Traditional and charming guinguette situated on an island in the River Marne. You don't have to dine – or pay – to dance. RER A2 to Champigny-sur-Marne. Dancing April–Dec Wed–Sat 10pm–2am, Sun 4–7pm. Le Petit Robinson 164 quai de Polangis, Joinville-le-Pont tel 01.48.89.04.39. Fifty metres along from Chez Gégène and a bit more upmarket, this is the place where serious dancers go to show off their immaculate waltzes, foxtrots and tangos. Like its neighbour, it has a huge dance floor, but it also boasts a live orchestra and is open year-round. Dancing Fri–Sat 8pm–2am, Sun 3–7pm. Admission and drink €10–15. RER Joinville-le-Pont. Le Tango 13 rue Au-Maire, 3e tel 01.42.72.17.78. Tea dances, mostly gay- and lesbian-oriented, take place most Sunday afternoons from 5pm or 6pm, with entry price at €5–7, depending on the event. M° Arts-et-Métiers.
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