There's a labyrinth of tiny streets to explore between the Fontaine des Innocents and place du Châtelet, once the site of a notorious fortress prison, now a maelstrom of traffic overlooked by two grand theatres, the Théâtre Musical de Paris and the Théâtre de la Ville. On the quayside, whose name (Mégisserie) refers to the treatment of animal skins in medieval times when this was an area of abattoirs, there are now plants and pets for sale. Further along the riverfront, towards the Louvre, the three blocks of La Samaritaine (Mon–Sat 9.30am–7pm, Thurs till 10pm) recall the days when aesthetics, not marketing psychology, determined the decoration of a department store. The building, now completely restored, was built in 1903 in pure Art Nouveau style, with gold, green, and glass exteriors, and, inside, brightly painted wrought-iron staircases and balconies against huge backdrops of ceramic floral patterns, though best of all are the excellent views of the Seine and Paris skyline from the tenth-floor terrace café (take the lift to floor nine in the Magasin Principal and then walk up two flights).
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