The Maginot Line
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Like the Séré de Rivières forts constructed along the line of the rivers Meuse and Moselle after the 1870–71 war, the Maginot Line was designed to keep the Germans out. Constructed between 1930 and 1940, it was the brainchild of the French Minister of War (1929–31), André Maginot. Spanning the entire length of the French–German border – plus a section of the French-Belgian border – it comprised a complete system of defence in depth. There were advance posts equipped with anti-tank weapons and machine guns. There were fortified police stations close to the frontier. But the main line consisted of a continuous chain of underground strongpoints linked by anti-tank obstacles and equipped with state-of-the-art machinery. It was of course hugely expensive and, when put to the test in 1940, proved to be worse than useless: the Germans simply violated Belgian neutrality and drove round the other end of the Line.One of the largest forts, the Fort de Fermont, situated about 50km north of Verdun near the small town of Longuyon, is open to the public (guided visits June–Aug Mon–Fri 3pm, Sat & Sun 2pm & 3.30pm; April, May & Sept weekends only 2pm & 3.30pm; tel 03.82.39.21.21; €5; times are susceptible to change so check in advance. Armed with nine fire points, it was served by 6km of underground tunnels and a garrison of 600. The entrance is hidden in woodland. Nothing shows above ground but the scarcely noticeable cupolas of the gun turrets. Below, the tunnels are equipped with power plants, electric trains, monorails, elevators and all the other technological paraphernalia necessary to support such a lunatic enterprise. The place has the feel of a nuclear bunker. Getting there without your own transport is not easy. There are trains to Longuyon from Metz and Verdun (change at Conflans), but you'll have to hitch or walk the last 5km to the fort. Over in the Alsace region, 15km north of Haguenau, the Four à Chaux fortress, dating from 1930, at Lembach has been restored, and now houses a museum of World War II (guided tours daily: mid-March to June & Sept to mid-Nov 10am, 2pm & 3pm; July & Aug 10am, 11am, and hourly 2–5pm; tel 03.88.94.48.62; €4).
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