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Abbaye St-Remi
France > North > Champagne and the Ardennes > Reims > Abbaye St-Remi

Most of the early French kings were buried in Reims' oldest building, the eleventh-century Basilique St-Remi, fifteen minutes' walk from the cathedral on rue Simon (Mon–Wed, Fri & Sun 8am–dusk, Thurs & Sat 9am–dusk; closed during services; music & light show July–Sept Sat 9.30pm; free), part of a former Benedictine abbey named after the 22-year-old bishop who baptized Clovis and 3000 of his warriors. An immensely spacious building, with aisles wide enough to drive a bus along, it preserves its Romanesque transept walls and ambulatory chapels, some of them with modern stained glass that works beautifully. The spectacular abbey buildings alongside the church house the Musée St-Remi (Mon–Fri 2–6.30pm, Sat & Sun 2–7pm; €1.50), the city's archeological and historical museum, whose eclectic collection includes some fine tapestries on St Remi's life, plus sixteenth-century weapons and armour.

The Ancien Collège des Jésuites (guided tours: daily 10am, 11am, 2.15pm, 3.30pm & 4.45pm, Tues afternoon hours only, Sat & Sun morning hours only; €1.50), a short walk north on rue du Grand-Cerf, was founded in Reims in 1606, and the building completed in 1678. guided tours in French take you round the refectory, kitchens and, highlight of the visit, the beautifully ornate carved wooden fittings of the library. The books on the shelves are false (aesthetics aside, the conditions are not ideal for storing books) and remain from the filming of La Reine Margot for which they were made.

If you have even a passing interest in old cars you should make for the Centre de l'Automobile, 84 av Georges-Clemenceau (daily except Tues 10am–noon & 2–6pm; €5.50), fifteen minutes' walk southeast of the cathedral. All the vehicles are part of the private collection of Philippe Charbonneaux, designer of a number of the postwar classics on display. In addition to the full-scale cars, there's an impressive selection of models, antique toys and period posters.


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