Along pedestrianized Rue Châtelaine, in the ville haute, is an excellent selection of wine shops, boulangeries and fromageries for assembling picnics. Simple snacks and basic meals can be had at the Le Parvis, which overlooks the west front of the cathedral (menu €10); at Crêperie Agora, an inexpensive Breton place near the cathedral at 16 rue des Cordeliers (open until 1am; closed Sat lunch & Mon; menu €7.50); at La Bonne Heure, specializing in quiche-like tourtinettes (€6 each) at 53 rue Châtelaine; or at the lively Brasserie Chenizelles, at no. 1 on rue du Bourg, the continuation of rue Châtelaine (menus from €12). Proper restaurants in Laon tend to be expensive: La Petite Auberge, the gourmets' favourite, at 45 bd Pierre-Brossolette in the ville basse near the station, falls into this category, serving traditional French cuisine using the freshest ingredients (menus €23, €29 and €38; tel 03.23.23.02.38; closed Sat lunch, Sun, and Mon eve). Next door, the Saint-Amour bistro, under the same management and with the same opening times, is much more economical but still very good (menus €12 and €14; tel 03.23.23.31.01); booking at either is recommended.There's usually something going on at the Maison des Arts de Laon (MAL), headquartered in a theatre on the place Aubry to the north of the cathedral – including the annual ten-day international film festival (www.laonfilmfest.com) in early April – and a concentration of events during the Fêtes Médiévales de Laon held in late May. October sees a series of big-name classical concerts during the Festival de Laon, either in the cathedral or MAL venues (details from the tourist office). Le Welcome, next door to MAL arts complex on the place, is an Irish-style bar and a good place for a drink.
| 