Away from the ports, the landscape becomes more rural and the roads straighter and quieter. The first stop inland for many visitors to France is ST-OMER, a quiet, unassuming and attractive little town, 43km southeast of Calais. It displays flights of Flemish magnificence, especially in the Hôtel de Ville and some of the recently restored mansions on rue Gambetta. The Gothic Basilique Notre-Dame (March–Sept 8.30am–6pm, Oct–Feb 8.30am–5pm) contains some noteworthy statuary. Unfortunately the eighteenth-century Hôtel Sandelin on rue Carnot is closed for renovation until June 2004 (but check with the tourist office for details), so the museum's handsome exhibits, such as a glorious piece of medieval goldsmithing known as the Pied de Croix de St-Bertin, cannot be seen at present.Aside from visiting the pleasant public gardens to the west of town, you can explore the nearby marais, a network of Flemish waterways cut between plots of land on reclaimed marshes east of town along the river. The bateaux-promenade run by Isnor Location (tel 03.21.39.15.15, www.isnor.fr) leave from the church in nearby Clairmarais (July & Aug daily 11am & hourly 2–5pm; Sept–June weekends on demand; €6); round trips take about an hour, and include a commentary in French on the flora and fauna of the marshes. Longer trips also feature a ride down the unique vertical boat-lift at Arques. For further information, including times, plus details of kayak and canoe rental, contact the tourist office. To get to the centre of town from the exuberant 1903 gare SNCF, cross over the canal and walk ten minutes down rue F.-Ringot, past the post office and into rue Carnot. The tourist office is by the gare routière on place P.-Painlevé (Easter–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–1pm; Oct–Easter Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 2–6pm; tel 03.21.98.08.51, www.tourisme.fr/saint-omer). For accommodation, try the pretty old Hôtel St-Louis at 25 rue d'Arras (tel 03.21.38.35.21, [email protected]; €30–40; restaurant Le Flaubert from €13); the Bretagne, 2 place du Vainquai, near the train station (tel 03.21.38.25.78, [email protected]; €55–70; restaurant Le Vainquai from €22), or the Vivier, 22 rue Louis-Martel, on a small pedestrian street near the town hall (tel 03.21.95.76.00, [email protected]; €40–55; closed Sun & beginning of Jan), whose restaurant specializes in fish (menus from €15). The closest campsite is near the Forêt de Clairmarais, 4.5km east of St-Omer (tel 03.21.38.34.80; April–Oct), although there's no transport out there. For places to eat other than the hotels, try the Auberge du Bachelin, 12 bd de Strasbourg, on the north side of the town centre (closed Mon; lunch menus from €13), or establishments around place Maréchal-Foch; Les Trois Caves, at no 18 (tel 03.21.39.72.52) has the best reputation (menu €24).
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