The first town of any size on the right bank of the Seine is CAUDEBEC-EN-CAUX. Most traces of its long past were destroyed by fire in the last war, after which it was rebuilt. The damage and previous local history is recorded in the thirteenth-century Maison des Templiers, one of the few buildings to be spared (EasterMay & Oct Sat & Sun 2.306.30pm; JuneSept TuesFri 36pm, Sat & Sun 2.306.30pm; €3). A market has been held every Saturday since 1390 in the main square.Caudebec's tourist office is slightly south of the centre, in place Charles de Gaulle (AprilNov daily 10am12.45pm & 2.157pm; DecMarch MonSat 36pm, Sun 10amnoon & 36pm; tel 02.32.70.46.32, www.caudebec-en-caux.com). Two absolutely indistinguishable logis de France face the river side by side from quai Guilbaud, with similar room rates: the Normotel La Marine at no. 18 (tel 02.35.96.20.11; €4055; closed Jan), and the Normandie at no. 19 (tel 02.35.96.25.11; €3040; closed Feb). There's also a riverside campsite to the north, the Barre Y Va (tel 02.35.96.26.38; closed OctMarch).
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