The road through the forest from Bagnoles, the D335 and then the D908, climbs above the lush woodlands and progressively narrows to a hog's back before entering DOMFRONT. Less happens here than at Bagnoles, but it has the edge on countryside.A public park, near the long-abandoned former train station, leads up to some redoubtable castle ruins perched on an isolated rock. Eleanor of Aquitaine was born in this castle in October 1162, and Thomas à Becket came to stay for Christmas 1166, saying Mass in the Notre-Dame-sur-l'Eau church down by the river, which has sadly been ruined by vandals. The views from the flower-filled gardens that surround the mangled keep are spectacular, including a very graphic panorama of the ascent you've made to get up. A slender footbridge connects the castle with the narrow little village itself, which boasts an abundance of half-timbered houses. Near its sweet little central square, the modern St Julien church, constructed out of concrete segments during the 1920s, is bursting with exciting mosaics. On summer afternoons (July & Aug Mon–Sat 3pm), free guided tours (in French) of old Domfront leave from the tourist office, facing the castle entrance at 12 place de la Roirie (Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 2.30–6.30pm; tel 02.33.38.53.97, www.domfront.com). Domfront's hotels, clustered together at the foot of the hill below the old town, make useful and very pleasant stopovers. Two logis de France stand side by side: the Relais St-Michel, rue du Mont St-Michel (tel 02.33.38.64.99; €30–40; closed Fri) has widely varied menus from under €15, while the Hôtel de France, 7 rue du Mont St-Michel (tel 02.33.38.51.44, www.region-normande.com/hoteldefrance; €30–40) is a little cheaper, and has a nice bar and garden. Campers should note that the two-star local campsite, Du Champs Passais (tel 02.33.37.37.66; closed mid-Oct to mid-April), is exceptionally small.
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