| The base of Mont St-Michel rests on a primeval slime of sand and mud. Just above that, you pass through the heavily fortified Porte du Roi onto the narrow Grande Rue, climbing steadily around the base of the rock and lined with medieval gabled houses and a jumble of overpriced postcard and souvenir shops, maintaining the ancient tradition of prising pilgrims from their money. A plaque near the main staircase records that Jacques Cartier was presented to King François I here on May 8, 1532, and charged with exploring the shores of Canada. The rather dry Musée Maritime offers an insight into the island's ties with the sea, while the Archangel Michael manages in just fifteen minutes to lead visitors on a voyage through space and time in the Archéoscope, with the full majestic panoply of multimedia mumbo jumbo. Further along the Grande Rue and up the steps towards the abbey church, next door to the eleventh-century church of St-Pierre, the absurd Musée Grévin contains such edifying specimens as a wax model of a woman drowning in a sea of mud. All open February to mid-November daily 9am–6pm; €15 for all, or €7 each one. Large crowds gather each day at the North Tower, to watch the tide sweep in across the bay. Seagulls wheel away in alarm, and those foolish enough to be wandering too late on the sands have to sprint to safety.
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