The most beautiful stretch of the Lot valley is the 21.5km between the bridge of Coursavy, below Grand-Vabre, just north of Conques, and Entraygues: deep, narrow and wild, with the river running full and strong, as yet unaffected by the dams higher up, with scattered farms and houses high on the hillsides among long-abandoned terracing. The shady, tree-tunnelled road is level and not heavily used, making it ideal for cycling.There are two hotels 6.5km east in VIEILLEVIE, where canoe rental is also available: the Hôtel de la Terrasse (tel 04.71.49.94.00, [email protected]; €40–55; restaurant €12–24.50) and the ramshackle but homely Le Canton au Relais des Pêcheurs (tel 04.71.49.98.82; under €30; restaurant from €13). A further possibility is the delightful Auberge du Fel, some 10km further on, high on the north slopes of the valley in the hamlet of LE FEL (tel 05.65.44.52.30, fax 05.65.48.64.96; €40–55; closed mid-Nov to March; excellent restaurant with menus from €11–22), which by an unexpected quirk of climate produces a little local wine. There is also a beautifully sited municipal campsite high on the hillside (tel 05.65.44.51.86; closed Oct–May).
Pages in section ‘Grand-Vabre ’: Entraygues, Espalion.
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