The substantial little town of ESPALION lies in a mild, fertile opening in the valley of the Lot, 10km from Estaing and 32km northeast of Rodez. It was the "first smile of the south" to the muleteers, pilgrims and other travellers coming down from the rude heights of the Massif Central and places north. Home town of Benoît Rouquayrol and Auguste Denayrouze, inventors of diving suits, Espalion is best known in France for its exiles, in particular its countless sons and daughters who set up in the café business in Paris from the 1850s onwards.The only interesting part of town is the riverside quarter, with its galleried and balconied old houses, once used as tanneries, hanging over the water. The finest view of the area is from the Pont Neuf, where the main road to Rodez crosses the Lot, as just upstream there's a lovely red sandstone packhorse bridge with a domed and turreted Château dating from 1572 right behind it. Surprisingly, there's an interesting museum dedicated principally to the life of the region: Musée Joseph Vaylet, in an old medieval church, on the main road, boulevard Poulenc (daily July–Sept 10am–noon & 2–7pm; Oct–June Wed–Sat & Sun 2–6pm; €4), which contains mainly furniture and domestic objects, plus an exhibition of diving gear (thanks to the two Espalionnais mentioned above). Don't miss the glorious little twelfth-century Romanesque church of St-Hilarion de Perse, built on the spot, so the story goes, where, in the reign of Charlemagne, the Saracens lopped off the head of St Hilarion. It sits on the edge of the cemetery, about fifteen minutes' walk to the left of the bridge on the Château side of the river, past the campsite. Built in red sandstone, with a wall belfry and wide porch with sculpted tympanum and dozens of figures adorning the corbel ends of the apse, it's a delight. Also well worth a visit is the Château de Calmont d'Olt (part February, Easter & All-Saints 2–6pm; May, June & Sept daily 10am–noon & 2–6pm; July & Aug daily 9am–7pm; €4.50–6), for its unbeatable views of the town and the country beyond. It's a rough and atmospheric old fortress dating from the eleventh century, on the very peak of an abrupt bluff, 535m high and a stiff 1km climb above the town on the south bank. Particularly good for children is a regular programme of activities throughout the day (afternoon only out of season), including demonstrations of medieval siege engines and artillery. The tourist office is just across the Pont Vieux in rue St-Antoine (May, June & Sept daily 9am–12.15pm & 2–6/6.30pm; July & Aug Mon–Sat 9/9.30am–12.30pm & 2–6.45pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm; Oct–May Tues–Fri 9am–12.15pm & 2–6.30pm, Sat 9am–12.15pm & 2–5.30pm; tel 05.65.44.10.63). For accommodation, there's no better place to stay than the Hôtel Moderne on the crossroads in the middle of town at 27 bd de Guizard (tel 05.65.44.05.11, fax 05.65.48.06.94; €40–55; closed mid-Nov to mid-Dec). The rooms are comfortable, but, more importantly, its restaurant is first-rate, especially for its river fish (menus from €11–40). There's also a municipal gîte (tel 06.77.58.53.08) at 5 rue St. Joseph. There's a riverside campsite, Roc de l'Arche, behind the Château (tel 05.65.44.06.79; closed Sept to mid-April), but better, if you have the time and the means, is the prettier, simpler and cheaper riverside Belle Rive (tel 05.65.44.05.85; closed Oct to mid-May) in the attractive village of ST-CÔME D'OLT, another 4km upstream, where there's also a gîte d'étape in a beautiful old house (tel 05.65.44.07.24; closed Nov–Feb) lying on the GR65, GR6 and GR620. Espalion has a second superb restaurant in the Méjane, by the old bridge (tel 05.65.48.22.37; closed Sun eve, & Mon lunch & Wed in July & Aug; menus €15–48), specializing in regional cuisine with a post-nouvelle influence, while for uncomplicated eating, there are several brasseries on the main through-street.
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