Between Aubenas and Les Vans, 27km to the southwest, several wild mountain streams flow out of the northern part of the Cévennes to join the Ardèche. One of the most beautiful is the Chassezac, which rises north of Villefort and carves a dry, twisting ravine covered with pine, bracken and sweet chestnut down to LES VANS.The centre of the town is occupied by the wide and cheerful place Léopold-Ollier, on one side of which is the eccentrically decorated Hôtel des Cévennes (tel 04.75.37.23.09; €3040), whose decor, friendly welcome and good cooking (from €15) make a stop here worthwhile, but book well in advance in high season. Other attractions are the remains of the old town and, just outside, the bizarre rock formations of the Bois de Paiolive. There's a gîte d'étape across the river at Chambonas (tel 04.75.37.24.99). Pages in section ‘Chassezac’: Thines.
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