Thirty-two kilometres west of Alès, ST-JEAN-DU-GARD was the centre of Protestant resistance during the Camisard war in 1702–04. It straggles along the bank of the River Gardon, crossed by a graceful, arched eighteenth-century bridge, with a number of picturesque old houses still surviving in the main street, Grande-Rue. One of them contains a splendid Musée des Vallées Cévenoles (Nov–March Wed & Thurs 9am–noon & 2–6pm, Sun 2–6pm; April–June, Sept, Oct daily 10am–12.30pm & 2–7pm; July & Aug 10am–7pm; €3), a museum of local life, with displays of tools, trades, furniture, clothes, domestic articles and a fascinating collection of pieces related to the silk industry. The work of spinning the silk was done by women in factories and lists of regulations and rules on display give some idea of the tough conditions in which they had to work.The tourist office is just off the main street by the post office (July & Aug Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sun 10am–1pm; Sept–June Mon–Fri 9am–12.30pm & 1.30–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm; tel 04.66.85.32.11). They can advise you about the times of the steam train that operates between St-Jean and Anduze (April–Aug daily; Sept & Oct Tues–Sun; €9.60 return). There's a big market all along Grande-Rue on Tuesday mornings. The best bet for accommodation is Auberge du Peras on route de Nîmes (tel 04.66.85.35.94, [email protected]; €40–55; good restaurant from €15.09). There's a gîte d'étape 3km north on the D907 at LE MOULINET; contact Mme Laurtay on 04.66.85.10.98.
Pages in section ‘St-Jean’: Desert Museum, Prafrance.
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