The Cantal Massif forms the most southerly extension of the Parc des Volcans. Still nearly 80km in diameter and once 3000m in height, it is one of the world's largest (albeit extinct) volcanoes, shaped like a wheel without a rim. The hub is formed by the three great conical peaks that survived the erosion of the original single cone: Plomb du Cantal (1855m), Puy Mary (1787m) and Puy de Peyre-Arse (1686m).From this centre a series of deep-cut wooded valleys radiates out like spokes. The most notable are the valley of Mandailles and the valleys of the Cère and Alagnon in the southwest, where the road and rail line run, and in the north the valleys of Falgoux and the Rhue. Between the valleys, especially on the north side, are huge expanses of gently sloping grassland, most notably the Plateau du Limon, and it's these which for centuries have been the mainstay of life in the Cantal: summer pasture for the cows whose milk makes the firm yellow Cantal cheese, pressed in the form of great crusty drums. But this traditional activity has long been in serious decline; as elsewhere, many of the herds are now beef cattle. And tourism is on the increase, in particular walking, horse-riding and skiing. The main walking routes are the fairly arduous GR400, which does a circuit of the whole massif, and the GR4, which crosses it from the north to the southeast. There are also more than fifty shorter routes, details of which are obtainable through Chamina publications. The two main summits, Plomb du Cantal and Puy Mary, are – for better or worse – accessible to all: the former by téléférique from Super-Lioran, the latter by a veritable highway of a footpath from the road at Pas de Peyrol. The best section of the GR4–400 for an experienced hiker with limited time is the three-hour stretch between Super-Lioran and the Puy Mary, with the possibility of taking in a couple of extra summits on the way. For motorists, there's the long, sinuous Route des Crêtes, which does a rather wider circuit than the GR400. But, be warned, if you hit a period of bad weather, you'll drive a long way in low gear, seeing no more than white banks of mist illumined by your headlights. The main centres within the massif lie on the N122 between Murat and Aurillac: LE LIORAN, where the road and rail tunnels begin, and SUPER-LIORAN, the downhill and cross-country ski centre, with the Auberge du Tunnel (tel 04.71.49.50.02; €30–40; restaurant from €12) and two gîtes d'étape, as well as a tourist office (Mon–Sat: July & Aug 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–6.30pm; Sept–June 8.30am–12.30pm & 1.30–6pm; tel 04.71.49.50.08). THIEZAC, 10km south, also has a tourist office (June–Sept Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–7.30pm; tel 04.71.47.03.50), as well as the Hôtel La Belle Vallée (tel 04.71.47.00.22, fax 04.71.47.02.08; €30–40; closed Nov–Dec 20; restaurant €10–29), three gîtes d'étape and a municipal campsite, La Bedisse (tel 04.71.47.00.41; closed mid-Sept to May). Further south at VIC-SUR-CÈRE there's a tourist office (Mon–Sat 9.30am–noon & 2.30–6pm; tel 04.71.47.50.68), and accommodation at the Hôtel des Bains, 9 av de la Promenade (tel 04.71.47.50.16, www.cantal-logis.com/vicsurcere/hoteldesbains; €30–40; closed Oct–April; restaurant from €16.80–26), and the riverside municipal campsite (tel 04.71.47.54.18, www.campinglapommeraie.com; closed mid-Sept to March).
Pages in section ‘Monts du Cantal’: Allanche, Aurillac, Salers, Murat, St-Flour, Margeride.
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