Fifteen kilometres west of Lyon, the Musée de la Mine at ST-PIERRE-LA-PALUD (March–Nov Sat, Sun & hols 2–6pm; €3.80) is guaranteed to instil admiration for the endurance of the miners who put up with working conditions like those simulated in the reconstructed mine shaft which forms the main exhibit. Going down into the copper sulphate mine shaft while an ex-miner explains its workings in meticulous detail (2hr; in French) is not recommended if you're claustrophobic. Back on the surface, you move on to an exhibition about the former mining village and pit.Although most of the villages in the Lyonnais mountains have a restaurant or two, finding a place to stay is somewhat more challenging. In ST-MARTIN-EN-HAUT, an hour's bus ride from the gare de Gorge du Loup in Lyon, is the hotel Le Relais des Bergers (tel 04.78.48.51.22; €40–55), probably the best bet for the area. There's also a tourist office (Mon 2–4pm, Tues–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm, Sun 10am–noon; tel 04.78.48.64.32), and a municipal campsite just outside the village on the D122 (tel 04.78.48.62.16; all year). A good spot to eat can be found eight winding kilometres to the north in the tiny village of YZERON, on whose main square stands the excellent Auberge de Tonton (tel 04.78.81.01.42), which serves duck and salmon as part of an €18 menu.
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