The fifteenth-century red- and black-brick Château at GIEN – where the young Louis XIV and his mother Anne of Austria hid during the revolts against taxation known as the Frondes – has been turned over to the Musée International de la Chasse et de la Nature (daily: June–Sept 9am–6pm; Oct–May 9am–noon & 2–6pm; €5.35), with the countless exhibits venerating la chasse – hunting horns, tapestries, exquisite watercolours of horseback hunts, guns and falconers' gear – rather outweighing la nature. The Château itself is modest, but unusual in its brick construction, a pattern of dark red interrupted by geometric inlays of grey; the interior is similarly striking, with its warm combination of brick and timber. Though the exhibits here are dominated by depictions of royal and aristocratic hunting as a sport, it's worth remembering that one of the significant consequences of the French Revolution for rural people was the right to hunt; a right jealously guarded today, particularly in the nearby Sologne. The museum also hosts special exhibitions.The town of Gien is pretty enough, having been restored to its late fifteenth-century quaintness after extensive wartime bombing, and the sixteenth-century stone bridge spanning the river gives excellent views as you approach from the south. Looking downstream, the great cooling towers of the nuclear power station at Dampierre-en-Burly, can be seen emitting streaming clouds of water vapour. Gien has long been known in France for its fine china, and a large factory employs over two hundred people today. You can buy the ordinary tableware, some of it attractive enough, in the factory shop on place de la Victoire, 1km west of the Château and bridge (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm), and the hand-worked, arty stuff either in the shops all over town, or direct from the Musée de la Faïencerie, immediately adjacent to the shop (Jan & Feb Mon–Fri 2–6pm, Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm; May–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 1.30–6.30pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm & 1.30–6.30pm; Oct–April Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm, Sun 10am–noon & 2–6pm; €3), which displays the more extravagant plates, vases and ceramic knick-knacks produced over the last 180-odd years, ranging from exquisitely worked vases to some monstrously pretentious objets d'art. A video shows current fabrication techniques, which you can sometimes see for real in the factory (by appointment only; closed July, Aug & Dec; tel 02.38.67.00.05). The very helpful tourist office is on place Jean-Jaurès, between the Château and the river (July & Aug Mon 2–7pm, Tues–Sat 9.30am–7pm, Sun 10am–noon; Sept–June Mon 2–6.30pm & Tues–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–6.30pm; tel 02.38.67.25.28). Gien is well supplied with hotels: La Poularde, 13 Quai de Nice (tel 02.38.67.36.05; fax 02.38.38.18.78; €40–55), on the way out of town on the road to Briare, has some lovely rooms looking out onto the river, and an excellent restaurant (menus €16–51). On the south bank, the rather ugly, modern Sanotel (tel 02.38.67.61.46; fax 02.38.67.13.01; €30–55) is redeemed by its riverside location and views, and has cheaper rooms facing away from the river. In the town centre, the welcoming La Bodega, 17 rue Bernard Palissy (tel 02.38.67.29.01; closed Sun & Aug; under €30) has a few inexpensive un-refurbished rooms. Facing town across the river, the campsite (tel 02.38.67.12.50, www.camping-gien.com) has a swimming pool, and stands just back from the so-called Gien beach, a wide sandy strip bordering the river. For eating out, Le Medieval, at 13 rue Hôtel de Ville (tel 02.38.67.47.69; closed Sun & first two weeks in July), has a very cosy atmosphere and good traditional menus for €13–25.
| 