The proudly defensive Château de Fougères (mid-May to mid-Sept daily 9.30am–noon & 2–6pm; mid-Sept to mid-May daily except Tues 10am–noon & 2–4.30pm; €4) provides a good contrast to Cheverny. It lies in the village of FOUGÈRES-SUR-BIÈVRE, 10km southwest of Cheverny, and was built in 1470 by Louis XI's chancellor, who was clearly sceptical about long-term peace. It is a veritable fortress, turned tightly in on its internal courtyard, and you can scurry freely about the many corridors, rooms and spiral staircases, even clambering under the roof and strolling along the guard's walk. There are rarely other visitors to interfere with the medieval fantasy, though various exhibits along the way explain medieval building techniques. You'll need fairly good French to appreciate the explanations.
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