Seen from a distance, TULLE, 29km east of Brive, is a strange, unattractive-looking place. Strung out along the bottom of the narrow and deep valley of the Corrèze, it looks grey, run-down and industrial. But once you get down to the riverside and the area around the cathedral, it reveals itself to be full of fascinating winding lanes and stairways bordered by very handsome houses – many as old as the fourteenth century – with an imposing Hôtel de Ville at the end of rue du Trech, the main commercial street. If not worth a prolonged stay, Tulle certainly makes an interesting stopover.The Cathédrale Notre-Dame, whose construction was drawn out from the Romanesque to Gothic periods, stands on the riverside quays in place Émile-Zola. The cloister beside it has a small museum (April–Sept Mon–Tues, Thurs–Fri & Sun 9am–noon & 2–6pm, Wed & Sat 2–6pm; Oct–March Mon–Tues, Thurs–Fri & Sun 9am–noon & 2–5pm, Wed & Sat 2–5pm; €2.35), containing a mishmash of exhibits ranging from archeology to accordions, along with a large contingent of firearms, which once formed one of the town's major industries, along with lace. Around the block, at 2 quai Edmond-Perrier, is a collection of documents to do with the Resistance at the Musée Départemental de la Résistance et de la Déportation (Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 2–6pm; free), particularly the terrible reprisals wreaked by the Germans when they recaptured the town from the Resistance on June 8, 1944, and hanged 99 people. The tourist office is opposite the cathedral at 2 place Émile-Zola (July & Aug Mon–Sat 9.30am–7pm, Sun 10am–noon; Sept–June Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–5pm; tel 05.55.26.59.61), while the bus and train stations are side by side on the southwest edge of the town on avenue Winston-Churchill. The market takes place on Wednesday and Saturday mornings by the cathedral. By far the nicest budget hotel is Le Bon Accueil, 10 rue du Canton (tel 05.55.26.70.57; €30–40; closed two weeks at Christmas; restaurant from €12), in an old beamed house with stone mullion windows, across the river from the cathedral. Other places to stay include Hôtel de la Gare (tel 05.55.20.04.04, fax 05.55.20.15.87; €40–55; closed one week in Feb & two weeks in Sept; restaurant from €15.30), by the train station, and La Toque Blanche at 29 rue Jean-Jaurès (tel 05.55.26.75.41, www.hotel-latoqueblanche.com; €40–55; closed second half Jan & early July), overlooking the car park by the very unattractive municipal offices, but only five minutes from the cathedral. The restaurant at La Toque Blanche is renowned, with an affordable menu at €21 (closed Sun eve & Mon) – or you can try their brasserie, L'Amadeus (open lunchtime Mon–Sat; plat du jour €6), next door. There's a municipal campsite by the river on the Ussel side of town (tel 05.55.26.75.97, fax 05.55.21.73.22; closed Oct–April).
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