Limoges has an abundance of good and not too expensive places to eat. Two places for a light lunch are the friendly Le Croquembouche, 14 rue Haute-Cité, near the cathedral (closed Sun, Mon & two weeks in Aug) and La Louisiane, a salon de thé on place d'Aine (closed Sun & Mon). For something more substantial, join the locals round communal tables for a convivial lunch at Chez François (closed Sun; menus €8.40 & €13) in the central market hall. For lunch or dinner Le Khédive brasserie at 39 bd Carnot (closed Sun & two weeks in Aug) or the rather posher Brasserie Le Versailles, on place d'Aine (menus from €10.25), make a good choice. But for a real treat of subtle and sophisticated cuisine (foie gras and a tagine of pigeon and dates, for example), there's no better place than L'Amphitryon, opposite the chapel of St-Aurélien at 26 rue de la Boucherie (tel 05.55.33.36.39; closed for lunch Sat & Mon, all day Sun & two weeks in Aug); their lunch menus start at €21 and €25 for dinner. Practically next door, Les Petits Ventres, 20 rue de la Boucherie (tel 05.55.34.22.90; closed Sun & Mon), will delight lovers of brain, brawn, tongue and other unmentionable cuts – though they also do more everyday dishes and even a vegetarian platter (lunch menus from €11.50, dinner €17).For drinks at any time of the day, people sit out in the not very attractive place de la République; a nicer option is lively place Denis-Dussoubs, a short walk further west, where you'll find fine beers on tap at the St Martial micro-brewery (closed Sun). In more traditional vein, Le Café des Anciennes Majorettes de La Baule, 27 rue Haute-Vienne (closed Sun & Mon), is a relaxed place offering concerts on Friday evenings (except July & Aug), while the Lord John Pub on avenue de-Gaulle near the train station – complete with darts – is a popular hangout, with live jazz on Thursdays (except July & Aug).
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