At CHÂLUS, 35km along the N21 from Limoges (1hr by bus), the principal point of interest is the ruined Château de Châlus-Chabrol (daily: April–June & Sept 10am–noon & 2–6pm; July & Aug 10am–7pm; €6), where in 1199 Richard the Lionheart was mortally wounded by an archer shooting from the still-extant keep. Richard, son of Eleanor of Aquitaine and as much French as English, was campaigning to suppress a local rebellion against English rule. On capturing the castle, Richard – by now on his deathbed – ordered all the rebels hanged save the archer, whom he pardoned. It was a short-lived reprieve; as soon as Richard was dead, the archer was flayed alive by the captain of the English troops. For real enthusiasts, there are two further castles, both private homes: Brie, with limited visiting days (April–Oct Sun & public hols 2–7pm; €4.50), 8km northwest of Châlus, and Montbrun (no visits), 8km southwest. For an overnight stay in Châlus, there's the simple but reasonably comfortable Auberge Richard Coecur de Lion, 29 av Jean-Jaurès (tel & fax 05.55.78.43.42; €30–40), with menus from €12 in its restaurant.Eighteen kilometres east, past another early medieval fortress at Rilhac-Lastours, the village of NEXON, also directly accessible by bus and train from Limoges, is of more general interest, with a fine, heavily restored seventeeth-century Château (now the mairie), set in magnificent parklands once renowned for its stud farm breeding Anglo-Arabs. You can camp in Nexon at the Étang de la Lande (tel 05.55.58.35.44; closed Oct–May). For a meal, try the Dexet at 17 av de Gaulle (closed for dinner Sat & Sun; menus from €9, €19 on Sun), the main road heading north to the train station and Limoges, for good-value country cooking.
Pages in section ‘Châlus and Nexon’: Châlucet and Solignac.
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