Some 43km north of Auch and 21km west of Lectoure lies the town of CONDOM, whose road signs have predictably been interfered with by passing Brits: there's sadly no connection between the place and the device, though the mayor's considering opening a museum. Unremarkable in every other sphere, Condom is nonetheless good for a quick visit or an overnight stop, with an impressive cathedral and attractive old streets in the centre. Armagnac drinkers will be interested in the Musée de l'Armagnac, 2 rue Jules-Ferry (daily except Tues: April–Sept 10am–noon & 3–6pm; Oct–March 2–5pm; €2.20), and the Chais Ryst-Duperon, where the liquor is aged (July & Aug daily 9am–noon & 2–6.30pm; Sept–June Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm; free). For other places to taste and buy Armagnac, ask the tourist office in place Bossuet (July & Aug Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 2–7pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; Sept–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 05.62.28.00.80).The cheapest place to stay is the Relais de la Ténaréze, at 20 av d'Aquitaine (tel 05.62.28.02.54, fax 05.62.28.46.96; €30–40).Two more appealing options, both with pools, are the Hôtel Le Logis des Cordeliers, in rue de la Paix (tel 05.62.28.03.68, fax 05.62.68.29.03; €30–40; closed Jan), and, for a splurge, the Hôtel des Trois Lys (tel 05.62.28.33.33, fax 05.62.28.41.85; €55–70; closed Feb; restaurant from €15). There's another GR65 gîte d'étape at the Centre Salvandy (tel 05.62.28.23.80), and a municipal campsite (tel 05.62.28.17.32; closed Nov–March) near the river on the road to éauze. For a straightforward place to eat, try Pizzéria l'Origan, at 4 rue Cadéot in the town centre (closed Sun & Mon), or Café des Sports, on rue Charron by the cathedral, which does substantial salads and a plat du jour at €8.49. A more upmarket alternative is Le Moulin du Petit Gascon (tel 05.62.28.28.42; closed Dec–Feb, also Sun eve & Mon; menus from €14.49), out of town by the campsite, and attractively sited beside a canal lock. Just 5km west of Condom, the tiny twelfth-century village of LARRESSINGLE is certainly very pretty, but is totally given over to the heritage industry as the "Carcassonne du Gers", with twee tearooms inside – and it only takes one coachload of visitors to swamp it. More interesting is the very fine abbey of FLARAN, 8km along the road to Auch (daily: Feb–June & Sept to early Jan 10am–12.30pm & 2–6pm; July & Aug 9.30am–7pm; €3.80). Built by the Cistercians in 1151 in pale white stone, it has the same scrubbed, ascetic appeal as Fontenay in Burgundy, with scarcely a hint of ornament – an effect totally destroyed by the decadent, incongruous plasterwork introduced into the monks' dormitory in the seventeenth century. Used as an Armagnac store until 1970, after undergoing many other vicissitudes in its long history, the monastery has only recovered its true identity in the last quarter of a century.
| 