Midway between Sète and Béziers, at the western end of the Bassin de Thau, AGDE is historically the most interesting of the coastal towns. Originally Phoenician, and maintained by the Romans, it thrived for centuries on trade with the Levant. Outrun as a seaport by Sète, it later degenerated into a sleepy fishing harbour.Today, it's a major tourist centre with a good deal of charm, notably in the narrow back lanes between rue de l'Amour and the riverside, where fishing boats tie up. The town's most distinctive and surprising feature is its colour – black – from the volcanic stone of the Mont St-Loup quarries. There are few sights apart from the impressively fortified cathedral, though the waterfront is attractive, and by the bridge you can watch the Canal du Midi slip quietly and modestly into the River Hérault on the very last leg of its journey from Toulouse to the Bassin de Thau and Sète. The tourist office is in place Molière near the bridge (July & Aug 9am–7pm; Sept–June Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 04.67.94.29.68). Of the town's hotels La Galoite (tel 04.67.21.30.28, www.laGaliote.fr; €30–85), located in the old bishop's palace on place J.-Jaurès, is the best, while Le Donjon (tel 04.67.94.12.32, fax 04.67.94.34.54; €40–55), in another atmospheric old building comes a close second. For cheaper but still comfortable rooms, try Hôtel des Arcades (tel 04.67.94.21.64; €30–40), in an old convent at 16 rue Louis-Bages. There are numerous places to eat around La Promenade, including La Belle Agathoise and Les Remparts, both with menus from around €9.50. Casa Pépé, in the centre of the old town at 29 rue Jean-Roger (tel 04.67.21.17.67; €12.20), serves ultra-fresh fish dishes in an intimate, stone-walled room. An hourly bus service operates between the town and the sea at Cap d'Agde; you can pick it up at the gare SNCF at the end of avenue Victor-Hugo, at the bridge and on La Promenade. To explore the Canal du Midi, take one of the boat trips organized by Bateaux du Soleil, 6 rue Chassefières (tel 04.67.94.08.79).
| 