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In the countryside, another hostel-style alternative exists: gîtes d'étape. Aimed primarily at hikers and long-distance bikers, gîtes d'étape are often run by the local village or municipality and are less formal than hostels. They provide bunk beds and primitive kitchen and washing facilities from around €8, and are marked on the large-scale IGN walkers' maps and listed in the individual GR Topoguides. In addition, mountain areas are well supplied with refuge huts, mostly run by the Club Alpin Français (CAF; 24 av de Laumière, 75019 Paris tel 01.53.72.87.00, www.clubalpin.com) and generally only open in summer. These huts are staffed in Hiking season and offer dorm accommodation and meals; they are the only available shelter once you are above the villages. Costs are from between €10 and €14.05 for the night, half-price if you're a member of a climbing organization affiliated to the CAF. Meals – invariably four courses – cost around €12, which is good value when you consider that in some cases supplies have to be brought up by mule or helicopter.

More information can be found in the guides Gîtes d'Étapes et de Sejours (€9) published by Gîtes de France, and Gîtes d'Étape et Refuges, published by Rando Éditions, available in French book shops for €18.30 or online at www.gites-refuges.com.


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