One sport that millions of visitors come to France to practise rather than watch is skiing. And whether downhill, cross-country or mountaineering, it's also enthusiastically pursued by the French. It can be an expensive sport to practise independently, however, and the best deals are often to be had from package operators. These can be arranged in France or before you leave (most travel agents sell all-in packages). Though it's possible to ski from early November through to the end of April at high altitudes, peak season is February and March.The best skiing is generally to be had in the Alps. The higher the resort the longer the season, and the fewer the anxieties you'll have about there being enough snow. Resorts such as Tignes, Les Deux-Alpes or Val Thorens, are almost all modern, with the very latest in lift technology. They're terrific for full-time skiing, but they lack the cachet, charm or the nightlife of the older, lower resorts such as Megève and Courchevel. The foothills of the Alps in Provence have the same mix of old and new on a smaller scale. The clientele are Riviera residents and prices are not cheap, though at least you can nip down to the coast when you're bored with snow. The Pyrenees are a friendlier range of mountains, less developed (though that can be a drawback if you want to get in as many different runs as possible per day) and warmer, which means a shorter season and less reliable snow. Cross-country skiing (ski de fond) is being promoted hard, especially in the smaller ranges of the Jura and Massif Central. It's easier on the joints, but don't be fooled into thinking it's any less athletic a sport. For the really experienced and fit, though, it can be a good means of transport, using snowbound GR routes to discover villages still relatively uncommercialized. Several independent operators organize ski-mountaineering courses in the French mountains. As elsewhere, snowboarding, free-riding and snowblading have taken off in a big way in France. So much so that in 2002 Les Deux-Alpes hosted the Snowboarding World Cup.
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