French wines are unrivalled in the world for their range, sophistication, diversity and status. With the exception of the northwest of the country and the mountains, wine is produced just about everywhere. The great wine-producing regions are Champagne, Bordeaux and Burgundy, closely followed by the Loire and Rhône valleys. Alsace also has some great wines, and there are some beautiful ones to be had in the lesser wine regions of Bergerac, Languedoc, Roussillon, Provence and Savoie.The quality of the vins de pays, though very variable, is still exceptional for the price. Quality wines are denoted by the appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC), which strictly controls the amount of wine that a particular area, whether several hundred square kilometres or just two, may produce. Within each appellation there's enormous diversity generated by the different types of soil, the lie of the land, the type of grape grown – there are over sixty varieties – the ability of the wine to age, and the individual skills of the producer. It's an extremely complex business and it's not difficult to feel intimidated by the seemingly innate expertise of all French people. Many individual wines and appellations are mentioned in the text, but trusting your own taste is the best test. Knowing the grape types that you particularly like (or dislike), whether you like wines very fruity, dry, light or heavy, is all useful when discussing your choice with a waiter, producer or wine merchant. The more interest you show, the more helpful advice you're likely to receive. The only thing the French cannot tolerate is people ordering Coke to accompany a gourmet meal.
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