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Salins-les-Bains
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SALINS-LES-BAINS, 15km southeast of Arc-et-Senans, is worth a further detour (back along the tree-lined country road that leads to the entrance to the Saline Royale). Confined at the bottom of a narrow valley piercing the flank of the Jura's central plateau, the recuperative spa town of Salins has been producing salt for around a thousand years. The Chalon family moved in on the town in the thirteenth century and the wealth they accrued from the control and sale of the "white gold" essential for the preservation of food enabled them to become among the most influential of the Comté's medieval overlords. This prominence, as well as the town's key position on the route to Switzerland, accounts for the two lofty forts overlooking the town, which are good walking destinations. The Salines de Salins, or brine-wells (one-hour guided tours daily: Feb–Easter & mid–Sept to Nov 10.30am, 2.30pm & 4pm; Easter to mid–Sept hourly 9–11am & 2.30–5.30pm; closed Jan & Dec; €4), are inevitably the town's main attraction.

The tourist office is on place des Salines (daily 9am–noon & 2–6pm; Nov–Easter closed Sun; tel 03.84.73.01.34). Having styled itself as a spa town since the 1840s (and still doing so), Salins has some grand hotels that once accommodated the fashionably ailing gentry. The Grand Hôtel des Bains, in place des Alliés (tel 03.84.37.90.50, fax 03.84.37.96.80; €40–55), offers comfortable accommodation. Alternatively, try the old-fashioned Hôtel des Deux Forts, in place du Vigneron (tel 03.84.37.93.75; €30–40), or the Bon Accueil, on 50 rue de la Liberté, north of the central square (tel 03.84.37.94.31; under €30), which is slightly less expensive, and has a café/restaurant with menus from €10. There's a campsite (tel 03.84.37.92.70; April–Sept) on avenue Général-de-Gaulle.


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