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Clairvaux-les-Lacs
France > East > Central Plateau > Lake District > Clairvaux-les-Lacs

The region's main resort town is CLAIRVAUX-LES-LACS. It's here that the northern tip of the serpentine Lac de Vouglans, dammed 25km downstream, reverts to the River Ain which feeds it. The Grand Lac, just south of town, is the focus of summer resort activity, with a beach area and watersports facilities. It's calm and scenic, in spite of all the camping activity going on around it. The Office du Tourisme du Pays des Lacs, 36 Grande-Rue (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm; July & Aug also Sun 10am–noon; tel 03.84.25.27.47, fax 03.84.25.23.00), is the place to find information about the region and outdoor activities such as boat and bike rental. For Hiking, the 63 Circuits de Petite Randonnée (€7 from the tourist office) has maps and descriptions of the circuits.

Simple, inexpensive accommodation can be found at the Hôtel Raillette, 50 rue Neuve (tel 03.84.25.82.21; €30–40). On the Grand Lac, providing more comfortable lodgings, are the Chaumière du Lac (tel 03.84.25.81.52, fax 03.83.25.24.54; €30–40; closed Oct–March) and the Bellevue (tel 03.84.25.82.37; €30–40; closed Oct–May) – the latter offering a view worthy of its name.

Surrounded by hills, Lac de Chalain, 16km north of Clairvaux and near the village of Doucier, has a much more impressive setting. It's also a very popular spot for camping, hence the prices can be high, especially in mid-summer. There are five campsites in town: jointly run Fayolan and Le Grand Lac, both on the lake (tel 03.84.25.26.19; May to mid-Sept); La Ferme du Villaret, on a farm, route des Moirans (tel 03.84.25.26.03; July & Aug); La Grisière et Europe Vacances, near the lake with mobile homes for hire (tel 03.84.25.80.48; May–Sept); and Les Tilleuls, 6 chemin des Tilleuls (tel 03.84.25.81.45; May–Sept), also with mobile homes for hire.

By far the most interesting sight around here – and one of the Jura's best-known natural spectacles – is the Cascades du Hérisson, a septet of waterfalls descending nearly 300m in just 3km. Well-marked from either end of the gorge, the easiest walk, accessible by road via Val-Dessous southeast of Doucier, leads to the best-known and prettiest of the falls, the Éventail. A ten-minute stroll from the car park leads to the cascade, which spreads out in ever-widening tiers, giving it the fan-like appearance after which it is named. Continuing upstream, you'll shake off most casual spectators and pass through the woods of wild oak and springtime daffodils to the dramatic Grand Saut, with its clear drop of sixty metres; the pathway passes behind the waterfall – an alarmingly windy spot to shower in. A steep climb leads to smaller sauts feeding the odd swimming-hole, past a drinks kiosk – at the intersection of another path which leads south to the village of Bonlieu – to the uppermost Saut Girard, 3km up from the Éventail and close to the village of ILAY. There's a choice of restaurants in Ilay, but only one hotel, the Auberge du Hérisson, 5 rue des Lacs (tel 03.84.25.58.18, fax 03.84.25.51.11; €40–55; closed Nov–Jan; restaurant from €12); they'll also be able to provide some tourist information.

A short drive up the N78 east of Ilay leads to a lookout atop Pic de l'Aigle: at nearly 1000m high, this is one of the best spots from which to view the Jura's topography. On fine days, the views extend as far as Mont Blanc to the east, and west to the plain of the Saône.


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