Practicalities
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Belfort épicerie

The gare SNCF and departure point for local buses are at the end of Faubourg-de-France, the main pedestrianized shopping drag in the new town. The tourist office (mid-June to mid-Sept Mon–Sat 9am–7pm; mid-Sept to mid-June Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 1.45–6pm; tel 03.84.55.90.90, [email protected]) is at 2bis rue Clemenceau, a ten-minute walk from the station down Faubourg de France as far as the river, then left along quai Charles-Vallet until you reach rue Clemenceau; the castle houses a tourist information annexe during the summer (July & Aug daily 10am–12.30pm & 2–6.30pm).

There is an excellent choice of hotels: the Au Relais d'Alsace, 5 av de la Laurencie (tel 03.84.22.15.55, fax 03.84.28.70.48; €30–40), is where out-of-town musicians stay when they perform in Belfort, and they will be happy to advise you about what's happening in the region. Other options include the Hôtel Vauban, 4 rue du Magasin (tel 03.84.21.59.37, fax 03.84.21.41.67; €40–55), where the owners are also artists, and, for a bit more grandeur, the Grand Hôtel du Tonneau d'Or, 1 rue Reiset (tel 03.84.58.57.56, fax 03.84.58.57.50; €55–70). Belfort's hostel, Résidence Madrid, is 1km west of the railway line at 6 rue de Madrid (tel 03.84.21.39.16, fax 03.84.28.58.95; €13.50, breakfast included), and its campsite, Camping International de l'Etang des Forges, is on rue du Général Béthouart, north of the old town (tel 03.84.22.54.92; www.campings-belfort.com; May to mid-Oct).

Inexpensive places to eat and cafés can be found in the place d'Armes and place de la République, in between antique shops and old-fashioned grocery stores such as Épicerie de Lion, on rue de la Porte de France. Aux Crêpes d'Antan, 13 rue du Quai, has delicious crêpes, starting from €4. Bistrot Boeuf-Carottes, 14 rue Lecourbe (tel 03.84.21.15.40; closed Sun eve & Mon), is another good place to eat, with menus from €15. Café Théâtre, behind the theatre on place Corbis, has outdoor tables by the river and is a pleasant place for a coffee, while La Poudrière, place de l'Arsenal (closed late July & Aug), is the best place for live music.